Echinacea: picking, optimal conditions for a flower
Greetings. Today I will dive the seedlings of Echinacea, which was sown on February 13th. The seedlings have already formed two true leaves. The seedlings look healthy and ready for picking.
We will also talk about what kind of echinacea loves light, what kind of soil it prefers and discuss some of the intricacies of caring for this plant. I think that it will be interesting even for those who have not yet grown this flower in their garden.
Characteristics and method of reproduction
Echinacea is a demanding perennial plant of the Asteraceae family, or Compositae, which, in addition to the well-known medicinal properties, is attractive and highly decorative. Echinacea is very beautiful in single plantings. In any case, Echinacea struck me with its unassuming beauty.
Echinacea multiplies in two ways:
- sowing seeds, which is carried out during February or at the end of June. I prefer sowing echinacea seeds for seedlings in February. I already have a negative experience of growing echinacea by sowing directly into the ground. For various reasons, the seeds never sprouted: first rains, then drought;
- dividing the bush in early spring, when the first leaves of the plant are just beginning to wake up. This should be done very carefully, trying not to damage the root system. Sometimes the bush is divided in the fall, after flowering is complete, but in this case, there is a high probability that the echinacea will not have time to take root before frost and will die.
Conditions for Echinacea
Echinacea loves sunny places, but it can grow and even bloom in partial shade. She prefers light, fertile, not too acidic soils. I am going to plant echinacea where green manure lupine used to grow: the soil there is alkaline and saturated with nitrogen.
When choosing a place, it should be borne in mind that echinacea does not like excess moisture and does not tolerate drought, therefore, the site for it should be located on a hill so that melt water does not stagnate on it in spring: in such conditions, the plant often gets wet.
How and when to feed echinacea
If you want to feed echinacea, then do the first feeding in early spring, as soon as the plant starts to wake up: add nitrogen in the form of a mullein to the ground so that the green mass grows faster in the echinacea.
Then do two more dressings: in June, apply mineral fertilizers for flowering plants to stimulate abundant bud formation; when the buds are already formed, feed the echinacea with the mineral complex again so that they bloom longer.
Echinacea from seeds develops for a very long time, so you need to be patient: such a plant will bloom only in the second year after sowing. Sometimes, however, it can give several flowers closer to autumn, but I would not count on it.
In the spring, Echinacea rises late, and if it grows in a shady area, the wait may drag on even more. Therefore, it is better to grow this plant in a sunny area.
Preparing for winter
Echinacea blooms from mid-July to late autumn. It hibernates well, because it has such a quality as frost resistance. However, in regions with harsh winters, it is better to cut it off in the fall, and mulch the area with humus, sprinkle it on top with litter and cover it with spruce branches to trap snow. Do not use film or agrotex for cover: the echinacea underneath can wither away.
How to dive echinacea seedlings
Preparation of containers and soil
Let's get down to picking seedlings. I prepared soft cups of different heights so that the seedlings would not shade each other later, and filled the cups two-thirds of their height with fertile forest soil with the addition of wood ash.
I made the cups from plastic bags, cutting the bottom seam. The glasses don't have a bottom, but I put them in a box, so the potting mix won't go anywhere. I previously steamed the soil and spilled Fitosporin-M to destroy insect larvae and pathogens.
Before the dive, I once again moistened and compacted the soil in the cups so that it would not spill out into the box.
I removed the entire earthen ball with seedlings from the container and placed it in a spacious container. In order for the extraction to take place without complications, I watered the substrate well 20-30 minutes before. Now I will use a fork to separate each seedling from the earthen coma and plant it in a glass of cotyledon leaves. It is important that as much soil as possible remains on the roots of the seedlings when separating from the general coma.
After transplanting, I added a little more soil to each glass, squeezed it around the seedlings, and then sprinkled the surface with dry sand. I will cover the box with the seedlings with a transparent perforated plastic bag to create a humid microclimate for the rooting plants.
For the first three days, I will keep the seedlings in partial shade, in a cool place, and when the seedlings adapt, it will be possible to transfer them to diffused light.
Moistening will be carried out by the method of bottom irrigation: I specially poured soil into the pallet so that you can control the level of its moisture. If there is no return frost, in late May or early June I will plant echinacea in the open ground.
Echinacea seedlings picking video
- Read the topic on Wikipedia
- Features and other plants of the family Asteraceae
- List of all species on The Plant List
- More information on World Flora Online
- Information about Garden Plants
- Information on Perennial Plants
- Information about Herbaceous plants
Sections: Garden plants Perennials Herbaceous Flowering Compositae (Asteraceae) Honey plants Plants on E
Favorable days for planting purslane in 2021 according to the lunar calendar
Many gardeners consider purslane a weed and wage a merciless fight with it. Indeed, if the purslane grows, it is not easy to get rid of it. But if you curb the plant, you can get many benefits from it: purslane leaves contain vitamins, iron and calcium necessary for the human body, so they can be included in the daily diet, adding to salads and sandwiches. And decorative varieties of purslane can decorate not only garden beds and flower beds, but also balcony containers.
The benefits of growing asters seedlings
The annual aster is unpretentious. It can be grown by sowing directly into the ground or by seedling.
Growing asters from seeds through seedlings at home has several advantages.
- Growing seedlings at home, it turns out to control many moments. In case of late night frosts or bad weather conditions, the transplant is delayed.
- It is easy to get a beautiful earlier flowering, It is advisable to start sowing in January, February, but at the same time it will be necessary to additionally illuminate containers with young sprouts.
- With the right choice of sowing dates and varieties, it turns out to plan flowering. This will provide the flower bed with bright colors for a long time.
- Flowers planted early will have seeds ripe by the end of the season, which are harvested and then used for planting the following year.
But for growing asters in a seedling way, you need free time and space on the windowsill. With a lack of lighting, young seedlings will stretch out.
When and how to plant statice seeds for seedlings
The growth activity of the statice and the splendor of its flowering are influenced by many factors:
- soil and ambient temperature
- landing or sowing site
- soil composition
- additional care.
The type of plant is of no small importance. It can be perennial and annual. The life cycle of statics will largely depend on the climate of a particular region.
Sowing dates depend on where it will be carried out:
- Statice are planted on seedlings in late February or early March.
- If we are talking about sowing a plant directly into open ground, then it is recommended to carry out such work not earlier than June.
- This is usually not done in May, since return frosts are possible this month. And although the flower is not afraid of them, nevertheless, it is better not to risk it.
The lunar calendar is often used by flower growers to determine the most favorable timing of planting.
The optimal and unsuccessful 2021 dates for planting kermek are:
|№||Month||Auspicious dates||Bad days|
|1||January||For annuals: |
7 – 9
14 – 21
27 – 29.
5 – 6
16 – 19
22 – 23
27 – 29.
|10, 24 – 26|
4 to 7
from 10 to 15
from 1 to 3
14 – 15
19 – 20
28 – 29.
|9, 22 – 24|
|3||March||Annual statistics: |
2 – 6
from 13 to 14
27 – 28.
13 – 14
17 – 18
27 – 28.
|9, 23 – 25|
from 2 to 6
from 15 to 17
2 and 26.
from 2 to 6
from 8 to 12
from 15 to 17
|8, 22 – 24|
from 2 to 6
from 15 to 17
25 – 26
30 – 31.
from 4 to 6
from 8 to 12
from 15 to 17
|7, 21 – 23|
In the southern parts of the country, early planting of a flower is possible - from late April to mid-May. But in cold areas, you will have to wait until about June to plant the kermek in the ground.
How to care for rudbeckia seedlings
Leaving before germination:
- The container should be located in a bright place where the temperature is maintained at + 20 ° C.
- The mini-greenhouse must be ventilated every day (preferably in the morning and in the evening). To do this, remove the covering material (glass, lid, film) for 15-20 minutes.
- After airing, wipe off condensation from the surface of the covering material to prevent fungal diseases due to excessive moisture.
By the way! With proper care, seedlings will appear in about 2 weeks.
It is necessary to care for the seedlings of rudbeckia after the emergence of shoots as follows:
- You need to rearrange the container on a sunny windowsill (south or southwest).
- Daylight hours should ideally be 12-14 hours, therefore it is recommended additionally supplement seedlings with phytolamps or LED lamps.
- After the emergence of seedlings, the temperature regime changes - now you need to keep the plants at 18 degrees Celsius during the day and at 16 degrees Celsius at night (but not below!).
- To water as necessary, do not allow the soil to dry out or waterlogged. The soil should always be moderately moist!
- Seedlings of flowers of the Aster family are subject to a black leg, therefore, after emergence, it is recommended sprinkle the soil with dry sand, calcined in a frying pan to prevent disease. The sand layer should be no more than 2 ml. After that, you need to carefully blow off the grains of sand from the seedlings themselves.
How and when to dive aster seedlings
When is it better to dive seedlings? At that moment, when the plants grow 2-3 true well-developed leaves. It is necessary to monitor the aster seedlings in order not to miss the moment and carry out the procedure at the appropriate time.
The soil is used the same, only now you can mix a handful of wood ash or complex mineral fertilizer for seedlings with it. It is necessary to transplant into individual containers, their volume is 0.2, 0.5 liters.
Note! If you want to plant plants in a common box, then observe the optimal distance between plants - 7 centimeters.
You need to dive aster seedlings using the following technology:
- Water the plants two hours before the event.
- Fill new containers with soil, 2 cm between the edges and the soil.
- Make a depression in the middle with your finger or pencil.
- Gently pick up the seedling with a spatula or stick, do not destroy the earthen ball. Weakened, sick, seedlings must be discarded.
- If the root of the seedling is too long, then you can pinch it off a little so that the root system is freely located in a new container, without bends.
- Deepen the seedlings into the hole so that there is a distance of 1 centimeter between the soil surface and the cotyledon leaves.
- Cover the hole with soil very carefully and compact the area around the plant.
- Sprinkle gently with clean water (along the edge of the container, without getting on the plants).
Important! It is necessary to dive aster seedlings as carefully as possible, the slightest damage to the roots can weaken the plants or provoke dangerous diseases, including the black leg.
Aster seedlings after picking need the following care:
- Place the plants in a bright place, but with diffused sunlight. During adaptation to a new place and rooting, it is very important to protect the plants from direct sunlight.
- The temperature is 19-20 degrees Celsius, no more.
- Watering as the topsoil dries slightly.
- Two weeks after full adaptation, you can feed the aster. You can use any complex mineral fertilizer for seedlings, for example, Agricola, Fertika Lux.
- When the seedlings have 4-5 true leaves, you can start hardening and preparing the plants for planting in open ground, in a permanent place.
Any gardening and dacha business requires certain efforts and time from the gardener and florist. And planting seeds for seedlings, subsequent care and picking are no exception. Aster is very beautiful in bloom and interesting to grow from seed, and if you follow the agrotechnical rules and instructions, you can easily achieve an excellent result. And if everything is done with interest and in a benevolent disposition of the soul, then any deeds will be a joy.
Transplanting calibrachoa seedlings to a permanent place
Planting seedlings of calibrachoa in open ground (pots or flower beds) is performed after a stable positive average daily temperature is established.
It is advisable to grow ornamental shrubs in a place filled with light. Even slight shading contributes to uneven growth of the stems, from which the aesthetics of the plant are lost. In addition, there is a risk of not blooming. The south side of the site fits perfectly.
It is necessary to protect the calibrachoa from drafts and sharp gusts of wind. After all, the stems of the plant are very delicate and fragile. And the opened buds do not like showers, they lose their decorative effect, the edges on the petals break off.
That is why experienced florists recommend growing bushes in closed or semi-enclosed spaces. These can be balconies, loggias, verandas or terraces.
When grown indoors, especially if they face north, backlighting is necessary even in summer.
Before planting, you need to carefully prepare the site. The soil must be fertile and nutritious. To prevent the disease of the root system from the black leg, the seat must be spilled with boiling water with several crystals of potassium permanganate.
If the plants are grown in containers, pots and pots, then you can use ready-made soil, which is sold in specialized stores.
Water calibrachoa outdoors or in pots sparingly as the soil dries out. Water only at the root, not over the leaves, 1-2 times a week. Spraying will be required during dry periods.