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Orchid transplant video - preparation, soil, process

Orchid transplant video - preparation, soil, process


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Video about the correct orchid transplant. It is necessary to thoroughly prepare for an orchid transplant. It is necessary to prepare the soil, which is very different from the usual substrate for indoor plants, it is necessary to prepare the orchid itself, and also very carefully carry out the process itself. During transplantation, the root system is also cleaned from old and dead roots. Even a pot can not be taken by everyone. We look - the whole procedure from start to finish.

Orchid transplant video

We transplant orchids.

We use pine bark for transplanting an orchid. First, the bark must be crushed. The size of the pieces should be about 1.5-2 cm. To do this, we grind the bark with a pruner. If the bark is dry (and even if it is not dry), we pour boiling water over these small pieces so that they swell and become soft enough. Let the bark cool. Once the bark has cooled, it turns dark and can be used to transplant an orchid.

Choosing an orchid. In order to transplant an orchid, you must wait for a large number of roots to appear, which will begin to crawl out of the pot; when the plant rises above the pot and begins to almost collapse. Therefore, we will transplant it into a larger pot so that we can bury it there. We take the plant out of the pot - for this we shake out all the contents. If there are roots at the bottom of the pot, we carefully cut them off, we will not need them.

We combine the bark that was in your old pot, namely good and large pieces, with the new bark in order to move the fungi with which the orchid lives in symbiosis into a new substrate. We use only large pieces that are well preserved. We do not use small pieces and dust, but throw it away.

We examine the root system. Good and healthy roots are firm, bright and juicy green. The roots that have died have a loose structure, they are flabby - we cut them mercilessly, not sparing dead roots, free the orchid from the old root system. We remove the rotten or yellow flabby leaves from the underside, we also do not need them. We remove all dry roots, carefully cut them off - they can be both wet and dry. We look through the entire root system and remove unnecessary roots. We probe the remaining roots, there should be no soft pieces (soft like a stocking) - we also cut off these parts, they are no longer alive.

We bury the living roots in the pot. We take the pot a little more than the previous one in volume so that the entire horse system goes deep there, and the plant can be planted a little deeper and leveled so that there is no distortion when the plant literally falls out of the pot. We deepen the root system into the pot, plant the plant itself, leveling it inside the pot. We also deepen all the roots that we had on top of the pot, placing them inside. We begin to add bark to the pot so that we can fix it there. First, we fill randomly, filling the space according to the principle "where it will fall." Because the roots take up some volume there, we begin to push pieces of bark between them with a pencil or a wooden stick in all empty spaces in order to fix the root system so that the plant is held tightly and does not fall out. In the center of the root system, an empty space usually remains - we rotate the pot and compact the bark, but carefully, trying not to damage the roots. Our bark is now moist and soft.

Thus, we pour the bark into a full pot. Immediately after planting, we do not water the orchid, but wait until the bark is completely dry. When planting, the bark is damp, it will slowly evaporate moisture, and the roots will drink this moisture. Those. after transplanting, watering the orchid is not required. If you have a peduncle on an orchid, then after you have buried the root system in the pot (before you poured the bark), you fix it to a stick and you can hold it by this stick already. While the peduncle is soft, it must be leveled by attaching it to the support. First, set the stick to the bottom, and only after that you begin to fill in the bark. Especially fix the stick with the bark, so that it sticks well with you later, and the peduncle does not fall out of the pot along with the plant.

This is how we transplanted the orchid. All the roots that we had on top went into our bark, and now they will complement the previous root system, and will bring moisture to the entire plant.


When to transplant?

Phalaenopsis transplant must be timely. But even without a special need to disturb the sensitive root system of the plant is not worth it.

There are several main reasons for replacing soil:

  1. The ground is too old. Over time, the substrate in the pot decomposes, loses its properties, and also becomes salted. Therefore, once every 2-3 years, depending on the state of the phalaenopsis, it is necessary to transplant into a new soil.
  2. Replacement of purchased soil. It is not recommended to start a transplant immediately after purchase. Usually, manufacturers put all the necessary fertilizers into the substrate, which allow the flower to grow and develop normally for some time. But after about a year or so, the supply of nutrients ends and then the indoor phalaenopsis orchid will need to be transplanted.
  3. Pests or diseases. Orchid decay or pest infestation is also a reason for transplanting.

Choosing the time for a transplant

In order for the process of changing the soil to be painless for phalaenopsis, and she could quickly restore the damaged root system, it is important to choose the right moment for this. Spring is best suited for these purposes, it is at this time that it begins to actively grow and develop.

Summer is not suitable for transplanting phalaenopsis, since the time the orchid is under stress from the high temperature, in winter the plant is dormant and all its growth processes are not slowed down.

If phalaenopsis blooms?

Inexperienced growers very often ask, is it possible to transplant a flowering Phalaenopsis orchid? Blooming specimens cannot be transplanted, as this causes them stress, and they will shed all flowers and buds. An exception can only be the case when the leaves or roots are damaged on the plant as a result of some kind of disease.


Phalaenopsis varieties

Adorable blue butterfly orchid

Breeders have been breeding new varieties of the royal flower for a long time. There are very rare plants among them. They cost a fortune.

For beginners in growing, hybrids are recommended. It is they who are easy to care for and do not require close attention to themselves.

Pleasant or Amabilis

Phalaenopsis Amabilis: white flowers with a light lilac dusting along the edge of the petal

The fleshy leaves of the phalaenopsis are dark green in color, arranged in 2 rows. Peduncles are long, curved in shape, can reach 0.5 m in length.

In place of the cut peduncle, a replacement immediately develops. Phalaenopsis Amabilis is a fertile material for crossing. It is this beauty that is the progenitor of many new varieties.

Long flowering. Flowers appear mainly in autumn.

Pink (Rosea)

It is considered a miniature plant. Bright pink or white flowers do not exceed 3 cm in diameter and are located on a peduncle, 30 cm long.

Schiller (Schilleriana)

The beautiful foliage of the exotic is completely covered with silvery specks, the bottom of the leaf is with a reddish tint. Huge flowers, reaching 7 cm in diameter, hang in a beautiful cascade from long peduncles. The stems can be 0.5 m long.

Stuart (Stuartiana)

An interesting plant with variegated foliage and silvery roots. The variety gained popularity due to its abundant flowering: at the same time, up to 60 snow-white flowers decorated with purple spots can bloom on one peduncle.

Phalaenopsis Cleopatra

Unpretentious hybrid variety with beautiful yellow flowers. The entire surface of the petals is generously mottled with burgundy specks. The flowers are large.

Phalaenopsis hybrids have an affordable price, varieties - a little more expensive.

Currently, orchid collectors are chasing pelorics. This is the name of a variety of orchids (mutants), which bloom differently each time.


Tuber preparation for planting

Often, after hibernation on the tuber, the roots partially dry out. Such material needs preliminary preparation, namely:

  • All small dry roots are cut off.
  • If there are rotting fragments on the tuber, they are cut out. Places of cuts are sprinkled with a mixture consisting of Kornevin and any fungicide. Then the tuber is dried for a day.

    See also: When to plant thuja, the timing of spring and autumn planting


    Home care

    This type of takki in the house should be placed near the western or eastern windows. If the flower stands near a south-facing window, it should create a shade that protects it from direct sunlight. For north-facing windows, the flower will not have enough sunlight for full growth, and this can lead to the fact that it does not bloom.

    Home care needs a special takka flower. It must provide for the observance of the following conditions:

    • It is necessary to provide the flower with the optimal temperature regime.
    • Choose the right soil and pot with the right size.
    • The pot must have a drainage system.
    • Drafts, temperature changes, sudden changes in illumination and other stresses for the plant should be excluded in a room with a takko.
    • Watering the flower is necessary only with warm and clean water.
    • In the spring and summer, spray takka and control the humidity in the room.

    The optimum temperature for a takka flower is considered to be a temperature not exceeding + 25˚ and not lower than +16 ˚С.


    Possible transplant errors

    • wrong choice of soil (too small fraction provokes root rot due to lack of sufficient air and humidity)
    • a small number of drainage holes in the pot
    • burning roots with brilliant green
    • transfer to a new pot without inspection of roots and soil
    • too spacious container chosen for transplanting (it provokes the growth of green mass instead of flowering, as a result the orchid grows rather than blooms)
    • the habit of spraying instead of watering (this method of moisturizing leads to latent drying of the roots, and after excessive drying out, the substrate does not absorb moisture well, the roots dry out and die from a lack of it)
    • watering by soaking for a long time immediately after transplanting.