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Growing red cabbage

Growing red cabbage


It is distinguished by a red-violet color of a head of cabbage, which is denser than that of white cabbage... Its blue-violet color, noticeable already with the appearance of cotyledons, is due to the anthocyanin contained in the cell sap. This is a natural litmus.

By the way, sorcerers and shamans knew the property of red cabbage to change the color of leaves and juice depending on the reaction of the environment (in acidic - pink, in neutral and alkaline - blue), sorcerers and shamans knew and fooled the people.

It is less productive and has a coarser consistency, which explains its relatively low use. At the same time, the leaves of this cabbage in marinade, salads and side dishes have an attractive color. Its dense heads of cabbage are well kept.


Compared to white cabbage, red cabbage has a more valuable chemical composition. It contains 9.5% of dry matter, 0.5-1,% of fiber - two times less than in white cabbage; 3.4-5.4% sugars, 1.4-1.8% protein. Red cabbage is rich in potassium, calcium, phosphorus, trace elements, enzymes. It contains a lot of vitamin C (39-60 mg%), vitamins B1, B2 (0.05 mg% each), B6 ​​(0.23 mg%), vitamin U and pantothenic acid (0.32 mg%), vitamin PP (0.4 mg%). Phytoncides of red cabbage prevent the development of tubercle bacillus in living organisms. This cabbage contains the anthocyanin pigment, on which the red color of the head and leaves of the rosette depends. The Japanese were the first to discover that it increases the body's resistance to radiation.

She is not inferior in her medicinal qualities of white cabbage, in addition, due to the large amount of bioflavonoids, it has more pronounced properties to reduce vascular permeability. The cyanide contained in red cabbage has the activity of vitamin P1, which is essential for the prevention of vascular diseases. It is used for increased fragility of capillaries, for various bleeding, radiation sickness, poisoning with salts of heavy metals.

By the nature of growth, development and its requirements for growing conditions from white cabbage, it almost does not differ

Red cabbage varieties. Early ripening - Primero F1, mid-ripening - Gako, Stone head, Mikhnevskaya, Voroks, Kalibos, Mars MS, Redma RZ F1, Rubin MS and late ripening - Rodima F1, Fuego F1.


The soil is prepared in the same way as for white cabbage. Besides organic fertilizers under this culture, 30-40 g of ammonium nitrate or urea, 20-40 g of superphosphate and 20-30 g of potassium chloride are introduced per 1 m2. Fertilizer valuable for red cabbage is wood ash... It has been proven by English practice that it contributes to a more intense color of leaves and heads of cabbage. It is applied during autumn processing or during spring deep loosening in the amount of 150-200 g / m2 or in the holes when planting seedlings - 80-100 g / m2 (for each plant 1 tablespoon).

Seedlings of early varieties of red cabbage are grown from mid-March in greenhouses on biological heating, mid-season varieties for summer-autumn consumption - from April 5-10 in cold nurseries or greenhouses, and in more southern areas - in areas of open ground protected from cold winds. Mid-late and late varieties of red cabbage for autumn-winter use are sown simultaneously with medium-late (April 5-15) and late-ripening (April 1-10) varieties of white cabbage.

Seedlings are grown in warm nurseries, solar greenhouses and hotbeds. Obtaining high-quality seedlings is associated with the observance of the correct temperature and humidity regime during its cultivation. Microclimate parameters are maintained and feeding is carried out in the same way as for white cabbage. Hardened high-quality seedlings are planted at the age of 4-5 true leaves. Early maturing varieties are best planted with potted seedlings. Such plants can have 6-7 leaves.

Seedlings are planted at a distance between rows of 60-70 cm, in a row early ripening varieties - 30-35 cm, medium - 40-50 cm and late varieties - 60 cm.

Care consists of loosening, weeding, watering, hilling and fertilizing. In the first feeding, 5-10 g of ammonium nitrate, 10-15 g of superphosphate and 5-7 g of potassium chloride per 1 m2 are added, in the second - 6-10 g of ammonium nitrate, 15-20 g of superphosphate and 7-10 g of potassium chloride. It is advisable to carry out the first feeding in the form of a solution. You can use diluted 1: 3 slurry or 1:10 mullein. The use of combined fertilizers, such as Kemira, ekofoska, azofosk, is effective in the quantities recommended in accordance with the nutrient content of these preparations.

Early-ripening varieties of this cabbage are harvested as the heads of cabbage ripen, mid-season and late varieties intended for storage are harvested in early October and placed in storage.

Because red cabbage contains less fiber, it is less burdensome for the stomach. It is stored better than cabbage and is more frost-resistant. Red cabbage is mainly used for making salads, as well as for side dishes, vinaigrettes, it can be fermented, pickled, but not boiled.

To read Red cabbage salads →

V. Perezhogin,
candidate of agricultural sciences


Growing cabbage

Cabbage varieties. Growing cabbage seedlings. Growing cabbage in the country.

Problems with growing cabbage.

Diseases of cabbage. White cabbage. Red cabbage.

Fertilizers for cauliflower

Cauliflower has a high fertilizer requirement. It grows well on warm, highly fertile soils with a light texture.

For autumn digging, you need to add 4 - 5 kg of organic fertilizers, 35 - 40 g of ammonium nitrate, 25 - 30 g of double granular superphosphate and 20 - 25 g of potassium chloride per 1 m2.

All types of cabbage need organic and mineral fertilizers, but each type needs its own fertilizer. It is noted that this garden plant grows better when combined with organic and mineral fertilizers. The effectiveness of various types of fertilizers for cabbage depends on the type of soil and the culture of its cultivation (long-term use of lime, organic and mineral fertilizers), on the content of nutrients in it, as well as on irrigation.

Seedling care at home

With the emergence of seedlings, it is necessary to maintain the air temperature in the room within + 6-7 ° C, such a temperature regime at night is especially important. The optimum air temperature for seedling development is 6 ° C. Therefore, as soon as sprouts have appeared, it is necessary to urgently transfer the boxes with Plants to a relatively cold place, otherwise the seedlings will begin to stretch, the result of this may be the development of weak seedlings of poor quality or its complete death. This temperature regime must be maintained for a week, then the daytime temperature should be increased to 15 ° С, and the nighttime temperature - up to 12 ° С. At the same time, cabbage seedlings on the windowsill need to be well lit in the daytime.

Growing cabbage seedlings at home

Cabbage is a valuable vegetable crop, from the cruciferous family, which people began to cultivate more than 4 thousand years ago. Cabbage is a biennial crop. The first year of her life is spent on the development from seeds of a plant with a taproot system, with: a short stalk-stalk and large, rounded leaves that form a head of cabbage. It is for this head of cabbage that gardeners grow cabbage.

Red cabbage. Varieties with description

Cultivation of red cabbage began in Western Europe, where it was developed in the 16th century. In Russia, they began to breed it from the end of the 18th century. - the beginning of the XIX century.

Red cabbage is a type of white cabbage. It has a head of cabbage and a rosette of leaves that are smaller than the white one. The cabbage taste is very pronounced, the head of cabbage is very dense. Heading starts late. Red cabbage has a long shelf life. It is suitable for side dishes, salads, pickling and pickling.

Brussels sprouts. Growing and care

Brussels sprouts do not develop a head of cabbage from the apical bud, but they do develop many small heads of cabbage in the leaf axils.

The plant forms a stem with a height of 20 to 60 cm, on which long-petiolate spreading leaves grow. On the stem in the axils of the leaves, large buds are formed - heads of cabbage - oval in shape, weighing 8-19 g each. In total, from 20 to 70 heads of cabbage are formed on the plant, slightly larger than a walnut.

Kale. What it is?

Due to its exceptional cold resistance and valuable nutritional qualities, this crop deserves special attention for cultivation in late autumn.

Collard greens are quite unpretentious, they can be successfully grown where other types of cabbage suffer from diseases and pests.

In many forms of kale, the leaves are reddish-purple in color, caused by the presence of anthocyanin. This color is a varietal trait.

Ornamental cabbage. Growing. Tips and Secrets

Leafy cabbage varieties with beautiful corrugated leaves of a bizarre shape and color are called ornamental cabbage.

Ornamental cabbage is a biennial plant: in the first year of vegetation it forms leaves, and in the second it blooms and bears fruit. Plant height is from 20 to 130 cm, in diameter they reach 1 m. Leaves are from 20 to 60 cm long and 10 to 30 cm wide, coarsely curly, finely curly and mossy curly.

Broccoli. Growing in the country

Broccoli differs from cauliflower in that it has many smaller heads than cauliflower on short, highly leafy peduncles. There are two types of broccoli plants: Calabrian and Asparagus.

Asparagus broccoli forms a very small central shoot and numerous shoots with white and purple flowers. More early ripening varieties have a purple color, varieties with a white color are more valuable in taste, but ripen later and their yield is lower than that of varieties with a purple color.

How to grow savoy cabbage in the country?

Savoy cabbage. Growing. Care. Harvesting

Savoy cabbage differs from white cabbage in its bubbly or corrugated leaves without a waxy coating.

The shape of the leaves of Savoy cabbage is due to the increased growth of tissues between the vascular-fibrous bundles. On the contrary, the vascular-fibrous bundles themselves in Savoy cabbage are less developed than in cabbage.

When to harvest cabbage

Early varieties of cabbage begin to be harvested from the end of June and finish in early August (as the heads of cabbage form). At the end of the formation of the head of cabbage, the covering leaves seem to stretch and cover the head of cabbage, it gets a peculiar color and shine, which determines the technical ripeness of the crop. With a further increase in the head of cabbage, the tension of the leaves reaches a maximum and the head cracks.

Growing white cabbage seedlings

Cabbage is grown as seedlings to speed up maturation. Seedlings of the same age, grown on different calendar dates, differ sharply. Improving temperature and light conditions accelerates growth rates, and with earlier sowing, seedling development may progress more slowly if growing conditions are worse. Therefore, when calculating the sowing time for cabbage seedlings, one must bear in mind the possibility of creating optimal conditions for its development.

White cabbage varieties for cultivation in the central region of Russia

The mechanism of nitrate consumption is genetically controlled, therefore, the selection of varieties is often no less important than agricultural technology. Comparative data on the accumulation of nitrates by different varieties and hybrids are few. However, it is known that varieties capable of adapting to environmental changes, i.e. resistant to unfavorable growing conditions, there will be no excessive accumulation of nitrates.

To get a high-quality harvest of white cabbage, it is very important to take into account the land factor. This plant does not tolerate acidic soils, so they will have to be limed, while not forgetting to increase the proportion of potassium in fertilizers for a green pet.

Red cabbage. Growing. Care

Growing red cabbage

Preparing cabbage seeds for planting

Preparing seeds for planting and growing seedlings are the same as for white cabbage.


Harvesting and storage

Early cabbage varieties are harvested in June-July and immediately consumed. The mid-ripening ones are ready to harvest in late summer, and the late ones in September or early October. Standing cabbage can tolerate frosts down to -5–7 ° C, cut heads of cabbage will deteriorate at this temperature. If frost occurs before the start of the harvest, then it is better not to cut the heads of cabbage, but wait until the frozen leaves thaw. Heads of cabbage harvested in dry weather at a temperature of + 4–7 ° C have the best keeping quality.

Ripe heads of cabbage are cut with a knife, leaving the lower leaves and a stump 3-4 cm long. Loose heads of cabbage are used for fermentation, and the densest ones with two outer leaves are laid for winter storage.

The best storage conditions for cabbage are between 0 and 2 ° C with a relative humidity of 90–98%. Heads of cabbage are laid on wooden flooring or lattices with cabbage stumps upwards at some distance from each other. If conditions permit, you can hang the heads of cabbage in pairs on the crossbars. If cabbage is rolled in diluted clay and then dried, it will be stored longer than usual.

Cabbage is stored on wooden decks at 0 to 2 ° C

White cabbage has firmly taken its place in the life of the Russian people. It is grown everywhere, adapting to the climatic conditions of different regions. This is not to say that this is a very capricious crop, but nevertheless there are certain requirements for the conditions of its cultivation and without their fulfillment one should not count on a good harvest. With the right choice of variety and the use of appropriate agricultural technology, cabbage can be grown quite successfully in the open field and in a greenhouse.


Planting cabbage in the ground

You can plant red cabbage seedlings in the garden at the age of 35–45 days. Such plants reach a height of 16–20 cm and have at least 4–5 true leaves. To make it easier to remove them from the container without damaging the roots, about half an hour before the procedure, the soil must be watered abundantly. Red cabbage is planted in the ground in early May, choosing a dry, cool day for this.

You should not hesitate with planting red cabbage seedlings in the ground, overgrown seedlings do not take root well

The plant categorically does not tolerate moisture stagnation at the roots. Therefore, the soil should be light enough, well permeable to water and air, but at the same time nutritious. Acid-base balance - neutral (pH 5.5-7.0). Do not plant red cabbage in lowlands or where groundwater approaches the surface closer than 1.5 m.If there is no other place, you will have to build ridges at least 60 cm high.

When choosing a place for a garden bed, it should be borne in mind that in partial shade and shade, the heads of cabbage acquire an uncharacteristic greenish tint, become loose, ripen longer than usual.

Red cabbage must be planted in an open place, even a slight partial shade is not suitable for it

Good precursors for the plant are any nightshade, legumes, onions, garlic, herbs, beets, carrots. After other varieties of cabbage, it is planted in the same place only after 4–5 years. Otherwise, keel infection is almost inevitable.

Since autumn, the soil is carefully dug up and humus or rotted compost is added to increase fertility.If there is no organic matter, use any complex nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (Azofoska, Diammofoska). Dolomite flour, sifted wood ash, powdered eggshells are additionally added to the acidic soil.

When planting in the ground, excessive thickening of the plantings is avoided by placing the holes at an interval of at least 60 cm. The distance between the rows of plantings is about 70 cm. About half an hour before the procedure, the holes are spilled with water. A handful of humus is put in each, 1 tsp. potash fertilizer without chlorine, 2-3 pinches of crushed chalk or sifted wood ash and a little onion husks.

When planting red cabbage seedlings in the ground, it is important to maintain the intervals between the plants so that each of them receives sufficient area for nutrition.

Seedlings are planted, deepening to a pair of cotyledon leaves. The soil around the plant is carefully compacted, the cabbage is watered abundantly (about 2 liters of water). For the first 10-12 days, it must be protected from direct sunlight. The easiest way is to build a temporary canopy over it from any white covering material.

Cabbage seedlings planted in the ground are watered abundantly

If the seeds are planted directly into the garden, the soil is prepared in the same way. The disembarkation scheme is also observed. The exact time depends on the region. In the southern subtropical climate, seeds can be planted in early April, in central Russia - in the last decade of April, in the Urals and Siberia - in the first half of May.

3-4 seeds are placed in each hole, deepening them by 3-5 cm. Before the emergence of shoots, the garden bed is covered with plastic wrap or covering material on arcs. Then you need to closely monitor the temperature outside. If it exceeds 25 ° C, the plants stretch, the stems are deformed and bent.

When the cabbage has 2-3 true leaves, the seedlings are thinned out, leaving in each hole one, the most powerful and developed seedling. The rest are carefully cut with sharp scissors so as not to damage the root system of the rest. Seedlings are watered every 2-3 days, in moderation. To prevent the development of the "black leg" a week after the emergence of seedlings, the bed is powdered with crushed chalk or tobacco crumbs.


Useful properties of red cabbage

Red cabbage is in many ways similar to its "white-faced" relative.

But in terms of chemical composition, it is richer. The bright purple color of cabbage is given by anthocyanins, which are very abundant in this vegetable. It is thanks to these substances that cabbage becomes more useful than all other types.
Anthocyanins strengthen blood vessels and capillaries, making them elastic. This property makes red cabbage useful for people with heart and blood vessels.

It can also be called a source of beauty and youth, because anthocyanins contained in it stabilize the condition of skin tissues. Anthocyanins have a beneficial effect on vision, block the effects of radiation and prevent the development of leukemia.

The phytoncides contained in red cabbage have a depressing effect on tubercle bacilli. Glucosinolates give a sharp and slightly bitter taste to cabbage, these substances prevent the division of cancer cells.

It also contains selenium and zinc. Selenium has a beneficial effect on the thyroid gland. It removes heavy metals and toxins from the body. And zinc supports the functioning of the brain.

This type of cabbage is a diuretic. And this is an important fact in the treatment of many chronic diseases. Its juice helps with coughs and hoarseness. To achieve a greater and faster effect, it must be mixed with honey.

Juice mixed with red wine is a recognized antidote for rabid animal bites.
The juice of this cabbage makes girls rosy and men full of strength. All of these points show how necessary red cabbage is for the human body, and how important it is to eat it regularly.


Features of cabbage

Cabbage (Brassica oleracea) is an agricultural crop. This biennial has a leafy tall stem and bare leaf plates of green-gray or gray-green color. The lower large fleshy leaf plates have petioles and a lyre-pinnate-dissected shape, they adjoin each other, as a result of which a rosette is formed (a head of cabbage around the stem). The upper sessile leaf plates have an oblong shape. The multi-flowered racemose inflorescence consists of large flowers. Large dark brown seeds are spherical in shape, they reach about 0.2 cm in length.

The composition of this plant includes mineral salts of calcium, potassium, sulfur and phosphorus, fiber, enzymes, phytoncides, fats, vitamins A, B1, B6, K, C, P, U, etc. Scientists have a version that the homeland of this culture is Colchis lowland, there to this day in nature you can meet many similar plants, which the locals call "kezhera". The type of garden cabbage includes red and white cabbage, as well as cabbage of Savoy, Portuguese, broccoli, Chinese, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, Peking and kale.


Growing red cabbage seedlings

For growing cabbage seedlings, it is advisable to have a greenhouse, since it is not easy to do this at home. It is much easier even to grow seedlings in the open field, temporarily covering the garden from severe cold weather.

Growing seedlings at home

At home, when growing seedlings of any cabbage, the main thing is to comply with the temperature regime. This is especially important in the first week after germination, when any excess of the recommended values ​​(7–8 o C) is fraught with instant stretching of the sprouts, after which they can lie down and never grow in the form of strong plants. A week after germination, the daytime temperature should be raised to 15-18 ° C, and at night it should still be kept at a level not higher than 10 ° C. Illumination is needed as much as possible, sometimes artificial illumination with fluorescent lamps or diode lamps is also required.

In this photo, the seedlings are no longer ideal: they are stretched out, but things have not gone too far yet.

Watering should be systematic, but not excessive: with an excess of water, cabbage easily gets sick with a black leg. At the slightest hint of this, watering should be limited, pour only a pink solution of potassium permanganate, and pour calcined river sand to the roots: if things have not gone far, most plants can be saved.

If the sowing was carried out in a common box, at the age of 10–12 days, it is advisable to split the seedlings into separate pots, preferably peat pots, which can be planted in a garden bed as a whole. At this time, seedlings usually have only cotyledonous leaves and at most one true leaves. Before picking, the box with seedlings must be well watered, so that it is easier to remove it from the ground. The central root, which is usually the only one during this period, must be shortened by about 1/3. The seedlings are planted in a new place, deepening the cotyledon leaves.

Immediately after the dive, the soil in the pots should be watered with a pink solution of potassium permanganate. For 3-4 days it is necessary to transfer the seedlings to the shade and raise the temperature to 18–20 o C. As soon as the seedlings take root, the temperature must be lowered again, and the pots must be returned to a lighted place.

Seedlings are fed twice: in the phase of three true leaves and a week before planting in the ground. It is most convenient to use complex fertilizers for cabbage (or simply Azophos) for feeding, but you can also make up a solution from any phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen fertilizers. Doses and methods for preparing the solution are strictly according to the instructions for a specific, available at home or specially purchased drug.

Spraying with Silk shortly before planting seedlings in the garden is very beneficial to red cabbage.

A week before planting in the garden, the seedlings must be tempered, accustoming them to fresh air, taking them out to the balcony for a while and reducing watering. Seedlings ready for planting should have at least 5 strong leaves. In open ground (and in the northern regions it happens that in a greenhouse), red cabbage seedlings are planted at the age of 35–45 days.

Growing seedlings in the open field

Growing seedlings at home is not an easy task, the most difficult thing is to maintain the temperature regime, therefore, in the absence of a greenhouse, they often sow seeds for seedlings right in the garden, having allocated a little sunny place for this. Work can begin in March when there is snow. The snow must be removed, and the ground must be well watered with hot water, then sprinkled with wood ash and covered with plastic wrap for several days. After a few days, the sun will warm the soil under the film so much that it will be possible to sow seeds by slightly burrowing the bed.

Using this technique, the author of these lines grows seedlings not only of various types of cabbage, but also of many flowers. At this time, in separate grooves, alternating with cabbage, you can sow the seeds of asters, annual phlox, snapdragon, and a little later, in April, marigolds, salvia, annual dahlias ("Merry guys") and many others, as well as some varieties a tomato.

For the first time, of course, the crops must be covered with foil. The moisture in the bed will last for a long time, as the lower layers of the soil will continue to thaw. As the shoots appear, the film will need to be raised, and if it suddenly gets very warm, then remove it altogether for a while: remember that in the first week, cabbage shoots need a low temperature.

As a greenhouse for growing seedlings in the country, window frames, which over the past decade, have been massively discarded by residents when installing plastic windows, are perfect. You just need to raise them to a height of 15–20 cm using suitable boards, and it is very easy to open them at any time, choosing among the discarded frames those that were opening with hinges during their lifetime.

At the age of 2 weeks, the seedlings must be fed with an infusion of wood ash, it also prevents damage to seedlings by early waking pests. Watering in March-April is almost never required. But the weeds grow well under the film, and they must be removed in a timely manner. You can transplant cabbage to a permanent place, as in the case of home growing seedlings, when it acquires 5-6 true leaves, and the garden bed is ready.

Planting seedlings in open ground

Red cabbage can withstand temperatures as low as -5 ° C. Therefore, it is possible to plant early varieties in a garden bed in central Russia from about mid-April, but for the first time, until the seedlings grow, cover them with spunbond or lutrasil. The shelter must be removed on time: the May holidays red cabbage must meet in all its glory: red-violet powerful leaves sparkling in the sun. Later varieties are usually planted in May.

Any type of cabbage should be given the most illuminated place. Usually cabbage is grown on the plain, but in regions with a large amount of precipitation, raised beds are equipped.

Red cabbage is undemanding to the composition of the soil, although, of course, it loves the most fertile. Late varieties require more fertilization than medium and early ripening varieties. He prefers organic fertilizers: manure and compost. The best soils are loamy with a neutral reaction: a highly acidic soil must first be limed by adding lime or chalk when digging.

The best predecessors are potatoes, cucumbers, peas, the bad ones are any cabbage, radish, beets. It is better to prepare the garden in the fall, because it is very difficult to do this during spring planting. For each square meter, you need to add up to 2 buckets of manure or compost, and any manure is suitable. A lot of ash can be poured, up to 2-3 liters. Mineral fertilizers in this option are optional.

For early maturing cabbage, planting is preferable according to the scheme 70 x 35 cm, mid-maturing - 80 x 50 cm, the latest varieties - 90 x 70 cm, that is, cabbage occupies considerable areas. You can save space in the garden bed, except by sowing in the aisles something from early ripening salads or early dill. It is better to plant cabbage in the evening.

Video: planting seedlings in open ground

Red cabbage is planted in the same way as any other:

  1. In the morning, the seedlings should be well watered to make it easier to remove from the pot. In peat pots, watering can be moderate.
  2. In the designated places, with a scoop, it is necessary to dig holes into which local doses of fertilizers are applied: a handful of wood ash and humus, then mix them with the ground and pour water, or better with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
  3. Carefully remove the seedlings, place the bush in the hole, deepening to the cotyledonous leaves. The whole peat pot is transferred into the hole, also deepening along the cotyledon. In this case, the apical bud (from which the leaves grow) should not be underground.
  4. It is necessary to water the seedlings very well, spending at least half a liter of water per bush. Watering should be done carefully, at the root, preferably from a ladle.
  5. After completely absorbing the water, lightly sprinkle the hole with dry earth.
  6. A day after planting, it is advisable for preventive purposes, to scare off pests, pour a thin layer of ash or tobacco dust around each plant.

Growing red cabbage without seedlings

You can do without seedlings altogether, sowing the seeds directly into the holes in a permanent place, but if you do this in March, the entire garden will need to be covered with a film, caring for the crops will not be very simple. However, early varieties can be sown in the holes in April, and then there will be no problems at all, however, the harvest will ripen later than with the seedling method. Seedless cultivation makes sense, since cabbage will spend its entire life without damage to the root system associated with transplantation.

When sowing, 2-3 seeds should be placed in each hole so as not to be left with empty holes in case of poor seed germination. The minimum distance between the holes for early varieties is 35 cm, for later ones - from 70 cm. In any case (even in April), it is advisable to cover crops for the first time with a nonwoven material. After the appearance of 2 true leaves, excess plants in the holes must be removed.

Is it possible to get a harvest of red cabbage on the balcony

Many residents who do not have summer cottages are trying to provide themselves with vitamin greens using loggias or balconies. And if in the case of dill or some salads it is not difficult to do this, in the case of cabbage plants the issue is controversial.

Leafy varieties grow well on the balcony (for example, Peking cabbage or Chinese cabbage), but heads of cabbage rarely work out. After all, it just takes a lot of space!

If there is a keen desire to grow red cabbage on the balcony, for each instance you will have to allocate a bucket capacity with drainage holes. You can immediately sow seeds in buckets so as not to transplant. You will have to water it almost every day, while fertilizing will have to be done only with mineral fertilizers. Cabbage has a lot of respect for mullein or bird droppings, but we are on the balcony of a city apartment! In short, it will be much easier and cheaper to go to the market and buy 2-3 heads of finished products.