Secrets of caring for an orchid at home, difficulties, transplant
Houseplants Published: 23 May 2012 Reprinted: Last edits:
For the first time I saw indoor orchids at my friend's house. The family lives well, they have a spacious house with large windows, and on each windowsill there are flowerpots with orchids. The hostess's story disappointed me that orchids are not a cheap pleasure. But from that day on, I had a dream to collect a collection of orchids in my modest apartment. And now the dream began to come true: for the anniversary, the children gave me a luxurious orchid. I was in seventh heaven.
Growing orchids at home
I looked after the orchid like a child, but my efforts were in vain - the plant began to droop, the buds crumbled one after the other ... I live in a small town, it is not easy to find specialists in orchid cultivation, so I typed special literature in the library and from friends , got patience and worked a miracle - saved her orchid.
Today in my collection there are already three phalaenopsis - Phalaenopsis Horse, Phalaenopsis Stuart and Phalaenopsis Schiller. All of them are distinguished by long flowering and healthy appearance, and the problems with the first orchid taught me an invaluable lesson: now I have my own secrets in growing these exotic flowers.
So, my advice to all orchid lovers:
- Make sure that there is always clean boiled water in the saucer in which there is a pot with a blooming orchid.
- Never transplant the orchid during flowering!
- Put a clove of garlic in each pot of orchids: garlic scares away flower flies.
- At night, I turn on a table lamp for my orchids - in the places where they come from, the daylight hours are much longer than ours.
- Orchid roots are involved in photosynthesis, so it is best to plant your orchid in a clear plastic pot.
- Orchids need to be watered over the top of the substrate. The water should pass freely through the soil, like a sieve. In this case, the soil is enriched with oxygen.
I would also like to dwell on the problems that most often arise with growing orchids at home.
Difficulties in growing orchids
Orchids are dropping buds and leaves
Your orchid may be lacking in light or moisture. Moisten the air in the room, move the pot closer to the window, eliminate drafts. And the reason for the leaves falling off in an orchid may be the proximity to ripe fruits: some of them, for example, apples, emit ethylene, which is very harmful to flowers. My friend had such a case: the children ate in the bedroom, where there are orchids, plums, and in the morning the plant shed several buds. Although it happens that orchids grow in the kitchen, where there are a lot of all kinds of products, and they feel great. In a word, here as you are lucky, but it is better to play it safe and not leave fruit next to them.
Orchid leaves rippled
or they have wrinkled edges. Perhaps the room is too hot, the orchid should feel the temperature difference between day and night at about 8 degrees.
Orchid roots peek out of the flowerpot
It's okay, it's just time for the flower to move to a larger pot. But if the roots of the orchid dry or rot, then urgently need to take action.
Orchid leaves are sluggish
despite regular watering. Chances are, you've over-watered your orchid! Or the pot is too narrow and the root system of the flower is squashed. Another likely reason is too generous watering with long interruptions.
Orchid does not bloom
Despite your best efforts, the orchid does not want to bloom. Most likely, the orchid needs the so-called "heat stress", that is, the same temperature difference between day and night, which should be 8-10 degrees of difference. Or maybe your flower just needs a rest.
And finally, a few more words in favor of these graceful and beautiful indoor plants. Orchids on the windowsill are also aromatherapy. Pleione maculata orchid smells like apples, Bulbophyllum pictuatum smells like watermelon, and Cychnoches pentadactylon Orchid smells like chocolate!
In addition, according to the teachings of feng shui, orchids stimulate the creative work of the brain and help get rid of depression. And dark red orchids supposedly cure their owner of laziness and apathy.
Transplanting a home orchid
Orchid transplantation is not at all as complicated as it seems to beginner growers, but it still has rules, and you need to know them. The orchid is transplanted when the old pot becomes small or when the substrate is "eaten" by the plant. Half an hour before transplanting the orchid into a new pot, water it well so that the roots can be removed from the pot more easily. Then the plastic pot needs to be crumpled a little in your hands, so that a clod of earth with roots is easier to remove. In an earthen pot, insert a knife between the earthen lump and the wall and wiggle it so that the earthen lump easily comes out of the container.
Then try to remove the old substrate from the roots of the orchid: for this it is enough to shake off what is crumbling by itself, the remaining substrate will help the orchid to adapt more quickly to the new soil. Now with a sharp sterile instrument, remove dead, rotten and damaged roots, and treat the cut sites with charcoal powder. Take a pot with large drainage holes, put a few large pebbles in it for counterweight, pour drainage, a little coarse bark, then lower the orchid roots into the pot, gently spread them and cover with the substrate on top, distributing it evenly in the pot.
You can water the transplanted orchid the next day, if the substrate is already dry by that time.
- Indoor Plants Information
Sections: Flowering Houseplants Epiphytes Orchid Orchids
Features of growing an orchid and caring for it
Phalaenopsis is a capricious flower. But, if you properly organize the care of the orchid at home, it will delight with abundant flowering at least 2 times a year. Care, in addition to watering and feeding, includes organizing a certain level of air humidity and temperature, replanting a flowerpot.
- Conditions of detention
Features of growing an orchid and caring for it
How to transplant correctly - the first stage
First you need to choose a suitable pot. A properly selected container is the key to successful flower growing. When choosing, it is worth focusing on several details:
- Container size. Too large a flowerpot will lead to the development of the root system at the expense of the formation of new inflorescences.
- Draining. The factory specifications should provide for a special hole in the bottom of the container. Otherwise, you will need to make a recess yourself, which can lead to accidental damage to the container.
- When choosing the diameter, you should count on sufficient space for the development of the plant for the next two years. If this is your first transplant, you can take a container one size larger than the current one for more confidence.
- For good air circulation, you can choose pots with holes on the sides of the container. In this way, the required air flow can be ensured.
- The material of the product plays an important role. A plant planted in terracotta pots requires more frequent watering. It is preferable to transplant the flower into a light plastic pot. In this case, attention should be paid to the durability of the product.
- Choose a shallow container to prevent water build-up.
- An important role is played by the style and design of the pot. Not all products are paired with an exquisite plant.
- Contrary to popular belief, choosing a transparent pot is not at all necessary. It is needed, first of all, in order to monitor the condition of the roots and regulate moisture. In Thailand, orchids grow beautifully in coconut shells instead of pots, and feel great.
Necessary conditions for growing
Indoor flower chlorophytum is not capricious, tolerates temporary drought, temperature fluctuations, partial shade well. But it will develop and bloom only when favorable conditions are created. In its natural growth environment, that is, in the tropics, chlorophytum receives a lot of sunlight and moisture.
Location and lighting
It is best to place a houseplant on a south or southeast window, where it will receive maximum illumination. When located on the southern windows in the heat, an artificial shade is created for the flower so that its leaves do not get burned.
Chlorophytum can also be grown in partial shade. It will grow even if you put the pot not on the windowsill, but deeper into the room. He does not need additional artificial lighting during the rest period.
Air humidity, as for other indoor plants, should not exceed 60–70%. When waterlogged, the roots, and then the trunk with leaves, begin to rot, soften and, as a result, die off. But too dry air is undesirable. In such conditions, the leaves dry and turn black, there are no new shoots and children.
Soil and pot requirements
The ideal soil for chlorophytum is nutritious, loose, and breathable. It is such a soil that is found in the natural habitat of a flower - in the tropics and subtropics. In addition, in these latitudes, it is rich in nutrients and an abundance of organic debris.
The land needs fresh. You can use the store, which is designed for indoor flowers, or do it yourself. In this case, sod or leafy soil must be included in the composition, humus is also possible, in two parts and one part of washed sand.
Spring and autumn planting
The most convenient time for transplanting is the period after the end of flowering. Flowers take root well, which are planted in the spring. Plants, together with an earthen clod, are allowed to be transferred to new places throughout the warm season.
In the spring, they begin to transplant irises when new young leaves appear. However, in this case, the planting bed should be prepared in the fall.
Planting in the autumn begins to prepare from the end of August.when the summer heat is no longer so strong. But plants should be planted even before October, that is, before the onset of severe cold weather. The soil should be dug up and if it is heavy, it should be diluted with sand. It is necessary to fill up the roots so that the "back" remains a little on the surface, and after planting, good watering is necessary. The root system should not be mulched as this can hinder growth.
How the plant reproduces
Irises reproduce by division. This is done not only in order to get more plants, but also in order to rejuvenate old bushes. This is done in early spring or in the last month of summer, closer to autumn. The shrub to be transplanted must be cleared of soil. In addition, broken, damaged and dead parts must be removed. When cutting the roots, you must leave the third part, and the foliage is cut by two-thirds. The rhizome, which has already been cut, should be disassembled into planting divisions.
The roots that remain, you must try to untangle. This must be done very carefully. On each of the divisions, it is necessary to leave from three to five bunches of leaves. The soil is prepared with the addition of peat; mineral complex fertilizer should be added to the planting recess. The planting hole should be dug so that the roots hang freely. After the soil is compacted, the root system should be at a depth of 5-7 centimeters. After carrying out all the manipulations, the flowers should be watered, and the surface should be mulched with peat. The distance between the seedlings should be 20-30 centimeters.
It is not very difficult to care for irises. All care comes down to timely weeding, loosening the soil, regular watering, pruning as needed, feeding and processing from pests.
When it gets warmer in spring, it is necessary to remove the last year's foliage from the irises and gently loosen the soil around them. After the emergence of seedlings, the flowers should be fed with nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers, and a week later - with nitrogen and potassium supplements. It is very important to feed the plant a few weeks after flowering.... This will promote better flowering for the coming year. Then add nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium substances.
To increase winter hardiness, it is necessary to provide the plants with a state of dormancy from about the end of summer. To do this, you should reduce watering, stop loosening the soil. In this case, the emerging weeds should be continued to weed out.
Watering irises is needed only when the period of drought comes. The rest of the time there is enough rainfall. Watering the flowers should be mandatory only when planting, during the ovary of buds and before feeding.
Flowers and peduncles must be removed after flowering. In mid-October, the irises are pruned. This is done in a conical manner. You must leave no more than fifteen centimeters. The leaves remaining from pruning should be burned, because pests and pathogens can remain on them. Before frost sets in, the rhizomes should be sprinkled with earth about 5-7 centimeters high. From above, you can make a shelter from dry foliage, spruce branches, etc. In winter, you should put more snow on the landing.
About pests and possible diseases
The best remedy for pest control is prevention. If the garden plot is clean, weeds are promptly eliminated and timely moderate fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is made, then, as a rule, diseases affect the plant less. In addition, the number of pests is also reduced. Most often, irises have the following problems:
- the formation of soft rot at the rhizome
The most common cause of rotting is planting too deep. With proper planting, the back of the rhizome should be in the sun and, as it were, “sunbathe”.
If the foliage begins to dry out, then you should know that in this way the first signs of bacteriosis appear. After that, the leaves begin to turn brown and bend over. In this state, they can be easily pulled out. Then the disease passes to the growing part of the rhizome and destroys it. She starts to rot.
The bush that is affected must be dug out of the ground and the affected area must be removed to healthy tissue. Then it is treated with funigicides. If they are not available, then processing can be done with iodine or potassium permanganate. After that, it should be left in the sun for 8 hours and during this time it is necessary to turn the rhizome several times.
Sometimes iris bushes are affected by spotting and then dark spots begin to form on the foliage. To prevent such diseases, with the onset of stable heat, the plant is treated with copper sulfate or any other preparation that contains copper. This is done three times with an interval of 5-7 days.
There are also pests that are not averse to attacking iris bushes. These include:
- gladiolus thrips
- iris and winter scoops.
If such uninvited guests are found on flowers, the seedlings should be processed several times with karbofos with an interval of 5-7 days.
Interesting facts about asparagus
Asparagus began to be cultivated in large quantities 2500 years ago in Greece. Many statesmen and rulers (Louis XIV, Leo Tolstoy, Thomas Jefferson and many others) consumed kilograms of asparagus sprouts.
Asparagus contains many vitamins such as C, K, B group, folic acid and others. Eating asparagus will help improve the functioning of the body, from the cellular level to the setting of immunity.
Asparagus or asparagus can only be harvested for 7-8 years. To increase the productivity of the plant, he was allowed to "rest", to accumulate energy in its shoots.
There is one unpleasant omen regarding the flowers of asparagus, they say, if delicate flowers appear on this plant, then this promises trouble for the house where asparagus grows or even the death of one of the household members. But this has nothing to do with the energy of the plant. Asparagus can actually damage only one case, when pets or small children want to eat asparagus berries. Asparagus fruit contains toxic substances - saponins. So they can cause diarrhea, vomiting or other unpleasant symptoms of poisoning.
Diseases and pests
Calla lilies at home are affected by aphids and spider mites. A soapy solution for applying to the leaves will help get rid of pests. If this tool does not work, insecticides are used for treatment.
High humidity provokes the defeat of the flower by fungal diseases in the form of:
- gray rot - the appearance of a grayish bloom on flowers and leaves. Fungicides are used for treatment
- brown rot - drying of leaves and peduncles. To eliminate it, stop watering, add a hydrogel to the soil, treat calla with fungicides
- bacterial rot - darkening of the bases of leaves and peduncles with gradual wilting and yellowing of the ground part. The disease is practically not treated, the affected plants are destroyed
- anthracnose - the appearance and gradual increase of brown spots on the leaves until a reddish circle with a light middle is formed. The affected parts are removed, the whole plant is treated with fungicides.
By following the basic conditions for keeping and caring for calla lilies, the appearance of diseases and pests can be avoided.
For cutting, it is more practical to cultivate flowers in a winter garden or greenhouse. And in an apartment or house, flowerpots with calla lilies will be a great interior decoration that creates a good mood.