Tsiperus: growing from seeds, reproduction and transplantation, species, photo
Houseplants Published: September 18, 2011 Reprinted: Last edits:
Cyperus (Latin Cyperus) belongs to the Sedge family and is also known as Syt. There are about 600 species. They grow in water bodies and marshlands from temperate to tropical zones.
Cyperus are perennial plants with herbaceous stems, on the top of which nodes are located close to each other. The leaves grow from knots close together, resembling an umbrella in shape. At home, only a couple of triplets of species are grown.
These plants are very fond of moisture, tolerate shade well. They are used to decorate aquariums and are often placed where there is too much shade for other flowers. Often used in small artificial reservoirs in semi-covered areas.
Briefly about growing
- Bloom: feed is grown as an ornamental deciduous plant.
- Lighting: bright diffused light or partial shade.
- Temperature: during the active growing season - 20-22 ºC, in winter - at least 12 ºC.
- Watering: during the growing season - frequent and abundant. The roots of the plant should be moist at all times. Usually, a pot of raw materials is kept in a pots of water. In winter, watering is reduced to moderate.
- Air humidity: high. The plant needs frequent spraying.
- Top dressing: from spring to autumn - once every three weeks with a complex mineral fertilizer.
- Rest period: not pronounced. Soreness never stops growing.
- Transfer: at any time, as soon as the need arises.
- Substrate: peat bog and humus land in equal parts with the addition of 1/6 of bog silt. After transplanting, the surface of the substrate is covered with a layer of sand. Can be grown hydroponically.
- Reproduction: seeds, cuttings, rosettes and dividing the bush.
- Pests: thrips, mealybugs, spider mites and whiteflies.
- Diseases: in conditions of low humidity, the tips of the leaves dry out.
- Properties: satura is a medicinal plant.
Read more about the cultivation of cyperus below.
Photo of cyperus
Cyperus home care
Despite the fact that the domestic cyperus can grow in the shade, it still prefers bright light. It is desirable to scatter light, although cyperus also transfers direct rays normally. It is better to shelter cyperus from direct rays at home only at noon, in the hottest weather. You can also grow under fluorescent lamps, but you need to illuminate for at least 15 hours a day.
The best temperature for indoor cyperus in summer is 20-22 ° C, and the plant also needs fresh air. In winter, the temperature should not drop below 12 ° C.
You need to remember one main condition for watering Cyperus - the roots of the plant must be constantly moist. The easiest way to do this is by placing the plant pot in a planter filled with water, but keep in mind that the water should only break the pot slightly. In winter, the plant needs coolness and moderate watering with soft water, which is better to let it settle beforehand.
Spray cyperus leaves often and abundantly. Water should be separated and at the same temperature as air. In winter, the plant should not be kept near heating radiators and should be sprayed less often.
The cyperus plant is fed indoors with complex fertilizers only in spring and summer every three weeks. In order for the plant to grow more actively, the old yellowed leaves are cut off.
To prevent variegated forms of cyperus from becoming green, you need to cut off all green-leaved shoots. For almost the entire year, spike-shaped brown flowers grow in the leaf axils.
Indoor cyperus can be transplanted throughout the year, if necessary. They are transplanted into a nutrient substrate with a pH of 5 to 6 from peat bog soil and humus (1: 1). Swamp silt (1/6 part) can be added to the total volume. The drainage in the pot should take at least a quarter, and the pot itself should be more high than wide. From above, the soil is covered with sand if the pot itself is immersed in water. The house plant Cyperus is an excellent hydroponic plant.
Domestic cyperus can be propagated by both seeds and leaf rosettes or by dividing the bush. Leaf rosettes are either placed in a jar filled with water or planted in wet sand. Cyperus papyrus is propagated only by seeds or by dividing the bush. For growing by seeds, the container is exposed to light.
Growing from seeds
When propagated by seeds, they are planted in bowls with a mixture of 1 part sand and 2 parts peat or leaf soil, after which the container is covered with glass. It is necessary to water cyperus with warm water, and the air temperature should not fall below 18 ° C. Ascended seedlings are transplanted 3 pieces into pots 7 cm in diameter with a substrate of turf, leaf and sand (2: 2: 1). Water abundantly and do not expose to the open sun. After a couple of months, cyperus is transplanted into pots 2 cm larger, also three sprouts each, into the ground of sand, turf and peat land (1: 2: 1).
Reproduction of cyperus rosettes
Leaf rosettes of leaves are cut off with a part of the shoot, transplanted into a pot of sand and provide a bottom heating of the soil at least 20 ° C, but preferably not more than 24 ° C. You can also try not to separate the rosette with leaves from the whole cyperus, but simply tilt it and lower the rosette into a jar of water. Soon the roots should appear, and then the plant can be separated from the mother and transplanted into a separate pot.
In spring it can be propagated by cuttings. In Cyperus cuttings, it is necessary to reduce the leaf surface by two-thirds just before planting. The upper part of the shoot will serve as cuttings, which is cut off under the lower node of the whorl, after which the cutting is planted in a pot 7 cm in diameter.
Reproduction by division
When the plant is transplanted, the plant can be propagated by dividing the rhizome - the plant must be over two years old. Cyperus will grow very quickly.
Cyperus papyrus - improves vision and blood circulation in the brain. Has a beneficial effect on inattentive people suffering from headaches and insomnia. It is better not to grow Cyperus papyrus at home for indecisive, insecure and aggressive people.
Diseases and pests of cyperus
Cyperus leaves turn brown. The tips of the leaves turn brown due to too dry air.
Cyperus pests. The plant suffers from thrips and whiteflies. Mealybugs and spider mites also often harm cyperus.
Cyperus Umbrella / Cyperus alternifolius
It grows on the island of Madagascar along swampy river banks. They grow in height up to 1.5 m with a little. A straight, often round stem, which ends at the very top with a leafy umbrella-shaped crown. Leaves are narrow and long, linear in shape. Up to 24 cm in length and up to 1 cm in width. Inflorescences emerging from the axils of the leaves look like small panicles. Variegata has green leaves with a white stripe.
Most often found in the tropical zones of Africa. It grows up to 3 m, it grows for a single year. The stem of this cyperus is straight, at the top it has a triangular shape. At the end of the stem is a rosette with leaves, the leaves are long and hanging down. Inflorescences with up to a hundred flowers grow on thin pedicels emerging from the sinuses of the leaf rosette. Grown in warm rooms with high humidity. Paper is made from the shoots of cyperus papyrus.
Cyperus diffusus / Cyperus diffusus
Grows in tropical zones. Small stems grow up to 90 cm. There are many leaves, they grow mainly at the base of the stem - up to 1.5 cm wide. At the top of the shoot, there are from 6 to 12 leaves, each up to 30 cm long and up to 1 cm wide.
- Read the topic on Wikipedia
- Features and other plants of the family Sedge
- List of all species on The Plant List
- More information on World Flora Online
- Indoor Plants Information
Sections: Houseplants Ornamental deciduous Plants on C Sedge
Types and varieties
In the natural environment, you can find 5 species of annual herbaceous plants, in horticulture, more often than others, sea lobularia and its garden forms are used.
It grows 10 - 40 cm, the stem of which becomes woody at the end of the growing season.
Densely branching stem ascending, erect. Leaves are linear - lanceolate, sharp, located alternately along the entire stem. Flowers up to 1 cm in diameter, collected in a racemose inflorescence, 4 rounded petals are white, pink, red, lilac or purple in color.
Lobularia Primorskaya blooms from June to October, flowers cover the entire bush, hiding small leaves.
The most popular and demanded type. Prefers sandy, clayey, well-drained and moderately fertilized soil. The planting site should be protected from wind and drafts.In diffused light, the plant will be much more comfortable than in direct sunlight. Grown as annuals, in rare cases as a perennial. Height up to 30 cm, expanding takes on a spherical shape, the stem is highly branched, at the ends of which many flowers bloom. Small leaves 2 - 4 mm long and up to 5 mm wide.
Flowers no more than 5 mm in diameter with various shades of pink, purple, red, lilac. The sea lobularia blooms during the entire vegetative period; in an area where there is no cold season, it can bloom all year round. After flowering, a round or elongated fruit pod is formed, with a characteristic fleecy coating.
Lobularia "Royal Carpet"
A low-growing plant 10 - 15 cm in height, multiple flowers, tightly framed by a bush, from which the flower garden turns into a continuous flowering bedspread, it is not for nothing that it is called the lobularia royal carpet. Flowers up to 3 mm in diameter, collected in racemose inflorescences, pink, purple, white. The lobularia of lilac, purple colors, which are most often used for decorating flower beds and borders, looks especially impressive. The flowering period is from July to October.
Lobularia Oriental nights
A low-growing bush 8 - 15 cm tall, with a creeping, densely branching stem, neat and compact. Leaves are long, narrow, lanceolate. During the flowering period, lobularia oriental nights from June to October, is covered with many small purple flowers up to 4 mm in diameter, collected in racemose inflorescences. A cold-resistant, light-loving plant does not like drought and excess moisture.
Alissum "Snow Carpet"
An annual ground cover variety no more than 15 cm in height, with a densely branching, creeping stem, forms neat miniature bushes with a spreading crown. The leaves are narrow, lanceolate. White flowers up to 4 mm in diameter, forms clusters in racemose inflorescences, densely framing the plant. Lobularia snow carpet blooms from early July to late September. Cold-resistant, undemanding plant to soil composition.
They are actively used to decorate borders, flower beds, alpine slides.
One of the most common garden forms of the alyssum species. Quite a tall bush reaches 40 cm, densely branching, spreading, lush and densely flowering plant. In its natural environment, it is found in southern Europe.
Stems and shoots are covered with small, green, narrow lanceolate leaves.
The flowering period is from June to early October. Small flowers are collected in a racemose inflorescence of white, blue, purple, lilac colors. Prefers loose, drained, moderately fertilized soil. Alyssum marine, like all representatives of the species, should not be pampered with complementary foods, otherwise the plant begins to “fatten” to grow, branching even more, while the number of flowers on the bush decreases.
Caring for pittosporum at home
The stars of pittosporum flowers against the background of elegant shiny foliage and dense curly crown seem to be a unique sight. But the extraordinary appearance does not mean at all that this plant is difficult to grow. Pittosporum does not like extremes, it needs careful watering, constant attention and care. But there is nothing difficult, except for a cool winter, in caring for a plant. And the ease of formation and beauty compensate for the thoroughness of the care. Pittosporum is best chosen by experienced growers who can provide constant monitoring and systemic care.
Lighting for pittosporum
It is difficult to call sun-loving resin seeds, but they are definitely light-loving indoor plants. Shading does not affect the attractiveness of foliage, but at the stage of budding and flowering, any reduction in light is reflected in the process of laying and developing flower buds and buds. Shrub leaves should be protected from direct sunlight (too intense lighting causes them to curl), but it is still better not to expose pittosporum away from the windowsill.
The eastern and western windows are rightly considered the optimal place for the plant, but pittosporum will also feel good on the north-facing windowsill. Light shading will not hurt, but in the middle penumbra, the resin seed will feel uncomfortable.
The resin seed plant should be evenly lit. It is better to turn the crown regularly in relation to the light source.
Variegated resinous plants are more sensitive to stability and light intensity than green-leaved forms.
Pittosporums are indoor plants that prefer to grow and thrive in a cool environment. They do not tolerate heat, fluctuations in air temperature. In living rooms, they feel good enough, but only if the temperature does not exceed 23 degrees Celsius. Optimum temperatures are from 18 to 21 degrees.
Plants achieve their maximum decorative effect only if they provide a cool wintering. For the winter period, it is better to move pittosporums to rooms with a temperature from 10 to a maximum of 13 degrees Celsius. Deviation from the recommended parameters leads not only to the absence or deterioration of flowering, but also to a slowdown in growth. A drop in temperature below 10 degrees is detrimental to the root system, but the aboveground part can withstand even light frost. Therefore, during the entire dormant period for the resin seed plant, first of all, the temperature of the substrate is controlled and, if necessary, measures are taken against hypothermia of the pots, putting the plant on supports.
Pittosporum is very sensitive to stagnant air and lack of fresh air. The rooms in which this shrub is located must be ventilated regularly, protecting the plant itself from cold drafts.
Flowering resin seed, or pittosporum (Pittosporum).
Watering and air humidity
Pittosporums need discreet, moderate watering. They do not tolerate stagnant water and waterlogging of the soil, too abundant irrigation. In summer, at ordinary temperatures, pittosporum is often watered, but without excess, and during the winter dormant period, watering is significantly limited, reducing the moisture content of the substrate by half compared to summer. It is undesirable to allow the complete drying of the substrate for the resin seed plant. The approximate frequency of watering is once a week in spring and autumn, 2 times a week in summer and once every 1.5-2 weeks in winter.
Smoloseyans well tolerate dry air, but the decorativeness of the greenery suffers significantly from this. It is best to grow pittosporum with at least moderate air humidity. At high temperatures or a drop in these indicators, spraying is carried out. Periodic scenting, in addition to the budding and flowering stage, has a positive effect on the attractiveness of the leaves. Greens can be wiped or washed from dust and use special polishes.
Top dressing for pittosporum
Smolens need additional feeding throughout the year, even during the dormant period, to maintain stable characteristics of the substrate. Pittosporums can be fed only in spring-summer, but rare winter feeding maintains a high decorative effect of the crown all year round.
In the active period of growth, fertilizing is applied at a frequency of 1 time per 2 weeks. In autumn and winter, feeding is carried out once a month.
For pittosporum, you need to select complex fertilizers for flowering indoor plants. If desired, the usual dressing in the summer can be alternated with top dressing with organic fertilizers.
Like many other indoor shrubs, the resin seed plant retains a high decorative effect only if it is regularly formed, which supports both the contours and the density of the crown. Over time, the lower leaves fall off, exposing the branches, and pruning also stimulates crown renewal. Plants tolerate almost any haircut very well, which makes it possible to expand the possibilities of their use in interiors of various styles.
Several types of pruning are carried out on the plant:
- pinching or pinching the tops of young twigs
- easy shortening of branches knocking out of the contours of the crown
- trimming to 1/3 of the length of the shoots to give a more strict silhouette
- cutting out side shoots and forming a central trunk to create standard and woody forms.
If desired, pittosporums can also be grown in bonsai form. A wire frame and frequent haircuts are used for shaping and direction.
Pests and diseases
Thanks to the poisonous juice, poinsettia is protected from many insects. But some parasites are not sensitive to it. The most dangerous of these is the mealybug. It provokes the formation of a whitish, cotton-like bloom on the back of the leaf plates and on the stems. In an infected plant, shoots and flower buds are deformed. To combat it, all visible traces of the insect are removed with a cotton pad dipped in soapy water. With a small number of insects, the bush is treated with a decoction of cyclamen tubers or field horsetail. In case of severe infection, the plant is sprayed with insecticide solutions.
Often the plant suffers from spider mites. They can be seen by the thin filaments on the back of the leaves between the veins. Also, the presence of the parasite is indicated by light spots that quickly spread throughout the plant. To combat the parasite, the plant is treated with a soap-alcohol solution. Then the bush is rinsed under a hot shower. If there are a lot of insects, they are sprayed with "Anti-tick" or other acaricidal agents. In total, 3-4 treatments are performed every 6 days.
When infested with whitefly, small whitish insects are visible on the plant. They take off in a swarm at the slightest touch of the bush. The parts affected by them twist and deform. To combat adult parasites, adhesive traps based on bright cardboard are used. Egg clutches and larvae are destroyed with insecticides or by spraying with an aerosol, followed by placing the plant in a tight bag for 3 days.
Thrips are small, dark parasites. They settle on the back of the leaf plates and feed on plant juices. On the infected parts, silvery spots and small dark spots appear. Stems and leaves wither, curl. All affected parts are cut off and destroyed. The plant is washed under a warm shower. Then the bush is treated with garlic water, a decoction of yarrow, marigolds. In case of severe infection, insecticide preparations are used.
With improper watering, the poinsettia suffers from gray rot. Fungal infection manifests itself as grayish spots on the leaves, which gradually become moldy. The disease is spreading rapidly. The affected parts dry out and fall off. Soon the flower dies. The infected plant is transferred to a new pot with clean soil and treated with a solution of any fungicide.
With the development of fusarium, the vessels of the plant are affected. It loses its ability to absorb moisture. The leaves wither, lose their tone, dark spots appear on the cuts. At the initial stage of the disease, transplanting and replacing irrigation water with a solution of fungicides helps within two months. A badly damaged poinsettia is thrown away, leaving the parts untouched by the disease for subsequent reproduction.
A beautiful poinsettia blooms around Christmas and decorates with its flowering dwelling when the rest of the plants are resting. It can be grown as a perennial, creating favorable conditions for re-flowering. Otherwise, caring for her is not difficult.