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Rodent control in the garden

Rodent control in the garden


Protecting your garden from harmful rodents

Among small mammals, the most significant harm to fruit trees, berry crops, vegetables and ornamental plants in our garden plots is caused by a forest mouse, voles, a water rat and a European hare.

An adult wood mouse has a pointed muzzle, large ears, a long tail, the color of the fur from the back is grayish-red, and the abdomen is white. During the warm months, she gives several litters of 3-8 cubs each. In winter, the mouse eats thin twigs and bark of young fruit trees in the part of the trunk, which is under the snow. Sometimes young trees and shrubs are completely "ringed".

The common vole is an inhabitant of grassy meadows, forest clearings, pastures, fallow lands, field crops and vegetable gardens. She has up to 8 litters per year with 5-6 cubs in each. In winter, it makes numerous passages under the snow, nibbling the bark and small roots of trees, and in nurseries it destroys seedlings of fruit seedlings, strongly scraping their young bark. It is distinguished by a blunt muzzle and short, wide ears, by the color of the back - from gray to black-brown, gray-white abdomen.

On the back of the bank vole, the color of the fur is bright red, on the underside it is light gray. In gardens and nurseries, it damages the aerial parts of plants. As a rule, damage caused by these small rodents to fruit and berry and ornamental plants is detected only in the spring, after the snow melts. In years with mild snowy winters, warm dry (with an abundance of food) summers, these rodents can reproduce, creating a high number.

The water rat (water vole) has a blunt muzzle with small ears almost hidden in the fur, and a short and thin tail is covered with thick small hairs. The color of the fur is usually brown (with a slight reddish tint). It is widespread in garden plots and gardens located near water bodies. During the warm period of the year, it gives 2-4 litters of 5-7 cubs each. From natural food, the vole consumes soft and succulent parts of marsh plants. In household plots, the water vole digs at a shallow depth, complex, long burrows in dry soil, throwing a significant amount of soil to the surface. With its moves, it penetrates the fertile layer of well-cultivated soil.

The water rat often makes exits to the surface in thickets of grass, along the edges of ditches, in heaps of peat and rotted manure, in places cluttered with branches, polyethylene, stones and under shed buildings in garden plots, as well as in nearby landfills. In warm weather, the vole also opens holes in open places.

Settling near garden plots, in the first half of the growing season, the water rat can eat up the sown seeds of grain and pumpkin plants, gnaw the root system of pepper, tomato and other nightshade crops, and in the second half of the growing season it actively feeds on potato tubers and flower bulbs in the gardens , root crops of beets, carrots, etc. In some years, water voles cause significant damage (including in winter), gnawing at the roots of young trees and shrubs, which often dry out when severely damaged.

Control measures for mice and voles

To prevent mass reproduction of these pests, the garden plot and vegetable garden must be kept clean. All plant residues are removed from the garden, the soil is dug up along the hedges and paths. In winter, snow is trampled down on the garden plot, which prevents these rodents from penetrating under loose snow to the trunks and root systems of trees. But if, with a small snow cover, severe frosts are expected, the compaction of the snow should be postponed. In this case, experts do not even advise to often walk around trees and berry bushes, since with a sharp drop in temperature under the tracks, the soil freezes faster to a greater depth and the roots may suffer from this.

Small rodents (mice, voles) run into the garden rooms, so they do not leave the remains of bread, cereals and seeds there.

To exterminate these rodents, bait is arranged, the best basis for which is: for voles - carrots, for mice - bread, and from exterminating means for catching - small crusher traps.

If in the spring period against the water vole the most effective baits based on chopped carrot root crops (you can also use potatoes, pumpkin, zucchini), in the fall, baits consisting of poisoned grain are promising. Vegetable oil and rodenticides are also added to the baits. Scientists have developed and recommended a biological preparation - grain bacterodentsid, obtained on the basis of bacteria that are safe for humans.

Rodenticide "Rat Death N1" MB is approved for use in personal and household plots against the indicated pests. Its briquettes (12.5 g each) are recommended to be placed in burrows, shelters, bait boxes. For successful destruction, if necessary, it is laid out again after two weeks, observing the safety rules for working with pesticides and the rules of personal hygiene.

Some owners of household farms, in order to fight the water rat in the spring, dig around their site adjacent to the reservoir with a ditch (15-20 cm deep) around the perimeter. At the bottom of the groove, cylinder traps (about 50 cm high, 20-25 cm in diameter) are dug in at a distance of 25-50 m from each other.

With the establishment of constant severe frosts, high snow cover in the second half of winter, a hare-hare can often visit summer cottages (especially in gardens adjacent to the forest) to feast on the bark and shoots of young trees located at an accessible height for this pest, from which they may be severely affected. Plants damaged by a hare are clearly visible on the tracks of two incisors, which are sometimes located above the snow cover at a height of up to 70-80 cm (hares often stand on their hind legs and reach the trunk at a rather high height).

High snow helps hares get to the crown of young trees. Damage to the trunks by these animals is sometimes quite deep, so the tops of young fruit trees (especially when gnawing round) usually die. But do not rush to "bury" this plant. He urgently needs to be covered and wait for spring. If the buds remain viable above the grafting, young shoots will go out of them and form branches, from one (the strongest) it will then be possible to organize a central conductor at the seedling, which will need to be tied from its southern side to the support (for straightening).

You should not arrange a heap of cut branches of fruit trees in the garden area. This can bring hares to the site: then the rodents will move to living trees.

Hare control measures

Even now, those gardeners who did not have time to take care of the protection of young seedlings in the fall need to do this as soon as they visit their garden plot. The most reliable protection can be a high, dense fence. The fencing of the site is made of boards, but a metal mesh stretched on the posts is preferable. The stems of young apple trees are carefully tied with spruce branches (needles down), rags, roofing felt, roofing felt, burlap, plastic wrap and other covering material. But using such means, replacing them every year, is relatively laborious, and the tied plants do not look very aesthetically pleasing.

In recent years, our industry has begun to produce special plastic nets to protect seedlings from hares (and even mice). Such a fine mesh (8x8 mm) is not available for these rodents. It does not interfere with light transmission and air circulation and does not interfere with chemical treatments and tree care. The mesh is produced in two types: in a roll (it is fastened with plastic clamps or wire) for trees and shrubs with a spreading crown and self-twisting (in piece packing) for trees with a narrow crown shape. It quickly installs around the trunk of the seedling, thus protecting against the encroachment of animals (with this procedure, young shoots are not damaged). According to manufacturers, the plastic mesh should last at least 15 years.

It is important to cover the buried seedlings of fruit crops with spruce branches.

Many gardeners scare away hares by hanging long ribbons of shiny or clattering foil or tin cut from cans on each tree at the beginning of winter (at a height of 50-70 cm above the snow level). It is important that these strips move from the slightest breeze and do not get entangled in branches. Other hobbyists protect their small trees by hanging garlands of black cardboard circles on the branches, clearly visible among the white snow. They scare away the animals with their movement in the wind. They also use red rags moistened with carbolic acid (lysol, etc.). In their opinion, as a result of these measures, hares bypass their garden plots until late spring.

And some gardeners use to protect young plantations from hares by coating their boles with mixtures containing substances with a pungent odor. The most popular composition here is a mixture of clay and mullein (in equal parts), to a bucket of which a tablespoon of carbolic acid is added. The coating is prepared in water in such a way that this mass acquires the density of sour cream. Another composition is prepared from 800 g of finely crushed rosin per liter of denatured alcohol, mixing the compositions until a thick mixture is formed. It is used to coat the stems and lower branches of fruit trees. Zaitsev is frightened off by the unpleasant smell and disgusting taste of carbolic acid.

Some gardeners offer to lubricate the stems and part of the branches to scare away hares with lard, but this is quite an expensive pleasure.

There is information that a thick creamy decoction of lime bark can be used to heal wounds inflicted on boles by hares. In early spring (preferably before the start of sap flow), the linden bark is crushed, poured with cold water and boiled for 30-45 minutes. Then the wounds on the plants are covered with a strained and cooled jelly-like mass. From above, the damaged stems are wrapped with thick paper and tied with twine for a period of 1-1.5 months (until the wound is tightened).

Alexander Lazarev,
candidate of biological sciences,
Senior Researcher, All-Russian Research Institute of Plant Protection


The use of pesticides

A Greensad specialist tells about the use of insecticides against ants:

Please note! The action of poisons cannot remain without consequences: destroying ants, poison simultaneously destroys all other insects, including useful ones.

You can choose preparations for the fight against ants (and other pests) in our catalog, which combines the offers of large garden online stores. Select drugs.

Insecticidal gels

Quite popular among private homeowners and summer residents insecticide. Effective, its action lasts for a month.

In the video, Vyacheslav Aleksandrovich shows where and how such a gel is used. "Clean House" in action.

Chemicals

Of the industrial poisons, the most commonly used chemicals are Muratsid, Muravyin, Anteed and Thunder-2. The active substance in all these preparations is one - diazinon... It belongs to the class of highly active organophosphate chemical compounds that affects the nervous system of insects and causes paralysis.


«Ant-eater» - insecticide

This agent destroys both adults and larvae. In the treated areas, the ants do not "tread" the paths again and do not arrange new nests. The period of protective action is at least three weeks.

In nature, everything is interconnected. Knowledge of the laws of Nature, the characteristics of horticultural crops and the life of an ant colony allows, first of all, not only to find a suitable method of struggle, but competently, wisely, to approach the problem of ants on the site.

Scaring off excess ants from our favorite plants is a more laborious and long way than direct chemical destruction, but also more humane. Moreover, ants are not only our enemies, but also friends: by destroying them completely, you can bring other troubles to your garden, which the little workers dealt with.


Rat poison

If an earthen rat burrow is located in a barn, the method of flooding the burrow will not work. You can use rat poison. However, this method cannot be called safe. If cats or dogs eat a rat that has had time to feast on poison, then death is inevitable. And the poison itself must be hidden far away. The owners themselves should be careful, and in no case eat bitten vegetables. The poison may not work immediately, during this time the rat will have time to manage the site. In this case, the vegetables will contain poison.

You can use high-power ultrasonic generators: "Chiston-2", "Tornado-400". To prevent rats from gnawing the wires, it is necessary to install scarers at a certain height from the floor. Rats love to live under wooden floors. You can install the device just under the floor so that the ultrasonic repeller affects the rat's habitat.


Reasons for the appearance

Shrews, like other similar creatures, constantly carry out natural migrations in search of suitable places for their vital activity. But this does not mean at all that it can appear in any area, since this requires certain conditions. Even if there is a lot of food on the site, but there is little moisture on it, then the shrew is unlikely to appear. Hard soil, which is not watered or does not contain natural moisture, does not allow the animal to dig long passages. Therefore, this animal is most often found near water bodies or in areas that are watered on a constant basis.


Protecting the garden from rodents in winter

Rodents usually get out of their burrows to get food for themselves, and they do this mainly at night. Moles, rats and other pests can seriously harm young trees and shrubs. You can provide reliable protection of the plant with a metal mesh. It is fenced off with young shrubs, seedlings that are easy to gnaw. The height of the fence should still be at least one meter.

If it is not possible to use a mesh fence, then it is recommended to secure the tree trunks in the following way:

  • wrap the tree trunk with rags soaked in kerosene or diesel fuel
  • cover the trunk with roofing material, while fixing it well
  • cover young plants with dry wormwood, the smell and bitter taste of which scares away rodents
  • protect the tree trunk with coniferous branches in several layers, with the needles down.

As part of preventive measures against pests, it is worth preparing the territory in advance for the winter period and keeping clean during the harvest.

Mice, rats move closer to people during the winter, if they do not find a more suitable and comfortable stay. Pests can accumulate and multiply in places where old rotten stumps are located, there is a large accumulation of foliage or brushwood, when the owner of the territory for any reason does not monitor the cleanliness of the site.

In order not to provoke and not create comfortable conditions for pests, it is worth collecting all the remnants of weeds, foliage, rotten apples and other fruits in the fall after harvesting.

The soil must be dug up. It is also important to isolate rodents' access to grain and other edible supplies.


Rodent control in the garden - garden and vegetable garden

To protect your garden from rodents, do not use straw for tying tree trunks, which will become an additional bait, but rather use stems of sunflowers, reeds or corn. The stems of wormwood will help you very effectively in the fight against rodents.

Old cut branches of thorny bushes (raspberries, rose hips, blackberries), which can be used to close holes and large cracks in the fence, will become a good barrier for hares. You can use them for tying tree trunks.
On the trunks of young seedlings and trees, you can hold a piece of bacon, the smell of which hares do not like very much.
Many gardeners scare off hares very well by hanging dog hair near the trees.
Additional protection for fruit trees will be the trampling of snow in winter in a circle around the tree - this destroys the mouse passages.
In the fight against rodents, some plants will effectively help. Rodents really do not like black elderberry, marsh wild rosemary, dry walnut foliage, which are scattered around the seedlings.
A good way to control rodents is to use a metal mesh, roofing felt or roofing material. At the same time, make sure that they do not adhere tightly to the bark - make an interlayer of dry stems or fabric.
The burrows of the water vole are destroyed by deep digging of the soil - of all the methods of fighting it, this is the most effective.

Mousetraps and traps will be effective if the number of rodents in your area is small. Otherwise, use poisoned baits. However, make sure that poultry and animals are not harmed by the poison. Place the baits in tubes of dense material (plastic, cardboard, etc.) that only a mouse can fit.
Rodents and birds can often be scared away with shiny Christmas tree tinsel or a garland of old CDs.
If in your beds and flower beds the plants suffer from shrews and mice, plant several bulbs of a beautiful ornamental plant hazel grouse - it will scare away intruders.

Gardeners in many countries protect their fruits from the moth by putting bags of waxed paper, polyethylene or gauze on branches with young ovaries. And so that the fruits can turn brown, the protection is removed a couple of weeks before ripening.
Young caterpillars really do not like burdock infusion. But you need to use it as soon as the caterpillars hatch from the eggs.
Caterpillars of the moth prefer only environmentally friendly fruits. And although their presence is not very pleasant, but it is a favorable indicator. Jars of sour compote hung on trees (can be diluted) will help you to protect the crop. Butterflies flock to them and drown.
The most ecological method of dealing with ants (they are the ones who breed aphids) is to sprinkle the anthill with ground or crushed chalk. This will significantly help reduce their numbers.
Birds get used to all sorts of deterrent devices quite quickly, so they need to change their location more often and set them up exactly when the crop is in immediate danger from them.
Fruit trees tied to branches of wormwood are well protected from leaf-gnawing caterpillars - just regularly change the dried branches to fresh ones during the summer. Currant bushes from moths will help protect the mint planted under them.
Moth butterflies usually hibernate directly under berry bushes damaged by them. Try to spud the bush with soil from the row spacing up to 10 cm for the winter. In spring it will be difficult for butterflies to get to the surface, their number will noticeably decrease. You can cover the ground under a bush with a non-woven fabric.
If you make a border of parsley around the strawberries, this will protect the berries from many pests at once.

As part of the fight against pear bug, which affects not only pear and apple trees, but even stone fruits (apricots, cherries and plums), try to spray the tree so that the drug mainly falls on the underside of the leaves - from processing the leaves from above, the pest is neither hot nor cold.
Timely digging or plowing the soil in the spring and within a week after harvesting will effectively cope with the pea grain eater and the pea moth - specific pests of legumes. Instead, you can spray your legumes with metaphos or similars three times.
In the thickness of the stems and leaves of plants, a pest called gall midge can live. The shoots affected by it are easy to detect by the characteristic swellings. Remove them promptly - immediately after harvest or later in the fall. In any case, don't leave them until spring.
The main enemy of crucifers (radish, radish, etc.), the earthen flea does not like the smell of lettuce.
An infusion of crushed aloe leaves will help get rid of spider mites.

Author Valentina Vasilieva
Date of publication: 05.04.2011
Reprinting without active link is prohibited


How to get rid of rodents in the country

The main question that worries all owners of summer cottages: “How to get rid of rodents in the country? Is there an effective method that will permanently protect plants and shrubs from animal attacks? " To combat mice, moles and rats, different groups of methods are used, which differ in efficiency, availability and have their own advantages and disadvantages.

Chemical insecticides

The use of chemicals is the most popular and effective option for self-destruction of unwanted rodents on the site. The preparations are presented in the form of liquid, powder, granules. Methods for using chemical insecticides:

  • Adding poison to milk, water and other liquids.
  • Creation of lures from cheese, bread, lard and other attractive products with the addition of a toxic substance.
  • Spreading powder and granules near burrows and in places where rodents may appear.

Chemical insecticides, penetrating into the body of the animal, cause paralysis of the nervous system and gradual death. When using them, you must strictly observe safety precautions. Gloves and respiratory protection should be worn when working with poisonous substances. Do not allow pets to come into contact with toxic drugs.

Ultrasonic devices

Ultrasonic devices can scare away, but not kill an animal. Rats and mice are able to hear high waves that are not available to humans. Rodents perceive ultrasound as annoying, they prefer to bypass its sources. Devices that generate waves with this frequency are suitable for repelling and creating a protective barrier. For a visible result, they must be installed along the entire perimeter of the site. The purchase of several ultrasonic devices will require significant financial costs.

Mechanical traps

Mechanical traps include traps, slippery and water baits, mouse traps, and other devices that are designed to catch pests. The principle of operation of the device is quite simple. A bait is placed in the center of the trap, and when the animal comes close to it, the holding mechanism is triggered or the rodents stick to the surface with glue and cannot get out of the trap. This method of pest control is not for everyone. It is useful only for the destruction of single individuals. The site owner will have to inspect the traps every day, remove corpses and update the bait.


Traditional methods

Traditional methods are quite diverse. These include using noise repellents, growing plants with a pungent scent, and creating protective fences for garden shrubs and trees. These are the most humane methods that do not kill, but scare away animals.

If you do not get to cope with rodents at your summer cottage on your own, contact a representative of the company "Dez Group" for help. An experienced specialist will help you quickly solve the problem and give recommendations on how to prevent the reappearance of unwanted animals on your territory. For consultation, contact the manager by e-mail or phone.


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