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Late planting of tulips: what to do if you forgot to plant on time

Late planting of tulips: what to do if you forgot to plant on time


Garden plants

The best time for planting tulips is September and "Indian summer", but it is not always possible to carry out the procedure during this period: employment usually interferes, and sometimes the planting material falls into the hands too late and has already sprouted ...
What to do with tulip bulbs if it's already November? Is it possible to plant them in the ground already tied to frost? After all, everyone knows that both early and too late planting of tulips is undesirable. However, in this matter, not everything is so simple, and even in late autumn, flower growers still have a chance. Let's talk about this.

Late planting of tulips in the garden

Conditions for autumn planting

Autumn planting of tulip bulbs is carried out when the air temperature in the garden drops to 5-10 ºC: at this time, the ground is already so cold that tulips cannot grow, but there is still enough heat in the soil to root the bulbs. If it is warm November in your area, then you can safely plant tulips in the middle of the month, but do not forget that you cannot water the site after planting, and it is necessary to mulch the surface of the flower garden.

In the photo: Planting tulips in autumn

If the ground has freezing and the temperature in the garden has dropped to -3 ºC, you can still plant the bulbs, but in this case, do not expect them to bloom early. There are frequent cases when tulips were planted in an already snow-covered flower garden: the snow must be cleaned off before planting, and after the procedure, it is again covered with a snowdrift to protect the bulbs from freezing.

Preventive tricks

Prudent people always have more order in the garden, and they have enough time for everything, so it makes sense to prepare in advance for the late planting of bulbous flowers. To do this, in September, you need to dig several plastic baskets for bulbs into the ground, fill them with soil, and pour compost on top of a hill and cover with lutrasil or other non-woven protective material folded in several layers. This simple manipulation will allow you to plant the bulbs even in December, because the ground under the shelter does not cool down and harden for a long time. But do not forget to cover the surface with compost after planting and cover it with spruce branches.

In the photo: We cover the planted tulips with spruce branches

Best garden spots for late planting

If the need to plant tulips caught you by surprise, the best place to arrange them in the garden is to plant them in the ones that were dug for the winter. tree trunks and mulch for the winter. Bulbs planted overwinter well over water and sewer pipes, because in these places the ground does not freeze so much: you all saw how the snow melts around the sewer manholes. It is very important that the soil in which you plant the bulbs is loose.

To protect tulips from hungry rodents, plant poisonous daffodil bulbs around the tulip flower bed, and the animals will not come close to planting.

Tulip planting rules

Large bulbs are immersed in the ground by 15 cm, keeping a distance of at least 10 cm between them, and small bulbs can be placed closer, and they are not so deeply buried. If planting is carried out in rows, the row spacing is left 30-35 cm wide. After completing the procedure, the flower bed is leveled with a rake. Watering is carried out only if the land is very dry. The surface is mulched for the winter.

Peat or compost can be used as mulch for the winter, but the use of fresh manure as such is unacceptable.

On top of the compost (peat), the flower garden is covered with straw, sawdust, fine bark, dry leaves or branches. When the first snow falls, throw a snowdrift on the flower garden, and this will be the best protection for the bulbs from the winter cold.

You will learn how to plant tulips in December in the following video:

Late planting of tulips in pots and containers

You can plant tulip bulbs in containers (pots or containers) and store them until spring, creating natural wintering conditions, that is, digging the pots of bulbs into the soil in an unheated greenhouse. When the soil begins to freeze in winter, cover its surface with insulation, and you can drive away rodents from the bulbs by spreading dried nettles around. In the spring, the pots are dug up and put on the terrace, but you can take out the bulbs from them and plant them, along with a large earthen clod, in the garden, in an open area, where, under the influence of sunlight, tulips will begin to germinate and develop quickly.

In the photo: Blooming tulips in a flower bed

Literature

  1. Information about Garden Plants
  2. Information on Perennial Plants
  3. Information about Herbaceous plants

Categories: Garden plants Perennials Herbaceous Blooming Bulbous flowers Liliaceae


At one time I studied a bunch of magazines (there was no Internet yet), collected knowledge bit by bit. I learned a few rules for myself:

  • it is imperative to dig out thermophilic bulbous (gladiolus, begonia), they need to rest at a constant temperature (+ 10 ... + 14 ° C) and humidity (50-60%)
  • the roots-bulbs can be dug out immediately after the foliage wilts:
  • children from single plants (tulips, lilies) should be separated more often, bush crops (daffodils, crocuses) should often not be disturbed.

Today I will tell you about frost-resistant bulbous flowers that need to be dug up in the summer and planted in the fall.

Tulips

Every year I dig out only large, varietal flowers. Others sit in the ground until the buds are crushed. For the rainy season, I cover the planting with cut plastic bottles, I make umbrellas for the flowers.

I take the varietal bulbs out of the ground when the honeysuckle is ripe. This is a great reference point. I rarely look at the lunar calendar. Later, in mid-July, it is better not to touch the flowers, they tolerate our climate well. Tulips, Daffodils

Daffodils

Daffodil false bulbs are often not disturbing. These flowers like to grow in dense clusters. I transplant them during the strawberry ripening period.

In a container with water, the false bulbs will remain fresh for up to a month, the main thing is to prevent stagnation of water, to change it more often.

Hyacinths

These flowers love loose soil, from which the bulb can be removed by hand, picking up the bottom with three fingers. I clean the planting material after two days of drying on the veranda, scatter what I dug up on old newspapers. I immediately separate the children, plant them in pots, and take them home for the winter.

Then I remove the leaves and roots with a knife (I pre-treat the blade with peroxide), peel off the keratinized scales. I store the prepared planting material until autumn in a garden house - I put it in a container with sand, periodically moisten it. Lilies, Hyacinths

Lilies

The bulbs of these delicate plants dry out quickly. I store them outdoors for no more than 3-4 days. If there is time, I transplant immediately, after removing the podlukovits - small young bumps.

Asian hybrids and LAs multiply too much, I dig them in every year, remove all podlukovitsy. Oriental, tubular, OT hybrids, Martagon can sit in one place for up to seven years. Young shoots do not interfere with maternal bulbs. Recommended transplant dates: mid-August - first half of September.

I do not advise replanting all lilies at once, there will be confusion with children. In the literature, the timing of digging hybrids is shared, I think, for this very purpose.

Crocuses

I don't touch the corms until the planting thickens or someone asks to dig out a few plants. I have several varieties, all behave about the same. I divide late varieties only in spring, the rest in the middle of summer.

When you want to get large buds, the bulbs can be kept in moist peat in the cellar or vegetable compartment of the refrigerator for up to two months. In this case, the plant is dug up immediately after flowering, and it is moved to a new place at the end of autumn.

Grouse imperial

This is a tropical culture. To lay a bud, the bulb needs to warm up well. To make the flower happy every year, it is dug up after the petals fall. The recommended temperature is +30 ° C. I take the bulbs home, put them in a container with wet peat, put them on the window sill facing the east, cover them on top with a light cloth or gauze in 4 layers. A couple of times a week I moisten the weave from the spray bottle.

One year did not dig the row on time, held it out until the strawberries ripen. As a result, many of the bulbs had to be thrown away, they rotted. By the end of storage, thin young roots appear on the bulbs. This is the signal to land. I must first spill the soil with a warm solution of manganese in order to scare away insects, to kill spores of fungi. Crocus, Grouse, Muscari

Small-bulbous

Kandyk, scillas, and other small-bulbous flowers grow in one place for up to five years. Then it is desirable to divide them so that they do not interfere with each other. Muscari, white flowers, snowdrops become larger after transplantation. I dig out small-bulbous ones when their leaves begin to dry out.

In hot summer, this happens in August. When it rains frequently, the leaves remain fresh until September. After drying in the shade for 3-4 days, I place the bulbs in a new place. If there is no time to transplant flowers, I put them in a shoebox, cover them with slightly damp peat or sand - whatever is at hand. I do not touch young plantings until seven years old, if the leaves are cut annually, new shoots do not develop, large buds are laid for next spring.


August disease (August disease) (Necrotic disease tulips)

August's disease was first discovered on tulips of the August variety in 1931 in the Netherlands. As it turned out later, it mainly affects tulips of early varieties. August disease is caused by the tobacco necrosis virus (Tobacco necrosis virus), which is transmitted with the spores of a fungus that parasitizes the roots of weeds and cultivated plants. The virus successfully penetrates into the tulip if its roots are damaged. Fortunately, damage to adjacent healthy bulbs usually does not occur because the spores of the fungus do not multiply.

The external signs of the disease are as follows: longitudinal brown streaks appear on the leaves and stems of diseased plants, which quickly dry out and crack. The stems bend and droop. Rotten brown spots form on the bulb, which is why the disease is sometimes called necrotic spotting. Daughter bulbs and babies are most actively affected, since the virus from the soil spreads along the roots and infects the entire plant.

Tulip disease Tobacco necrosis virus

Control measures for August's disease


Home care

The North American tulip tree can be grown both outdoors and as an indoor crop. If you provide the tree with proper care, then it will take root without any problems.

Place and soil

Liriodendron is unpretentious in terms of choosing a landing site, so you can place it anywhere. The main thing is to take into account several conditions.

When planting, you need to pay attention to the sunlight and the neighboring trees, because the tree grows quickly both in width and in height.

Do not plant in clay soil, as it does not allow water, heat and air to pass through. Clay for planting is suitable if it is mixed with peat and sand, which will increase the level of water and air permeability.

If the plant is planted only in sandy soil, then you will have to take care of additional care. You can increase the amount of nutrients with the help of high-quality fertilizers. For the first few years, you can do without complementary foods in order to see how the tree will take root and behave in different weather

It is also important to fertilize the soil with humus or compost, because the plant needs good nutrition.

A neutral or slightly acidic soil is ideal for comfortable growth of a tulip tree (the acidity level should be less than 7.5). The presence of constant water in the soil, stagnant moisture can lead to plant disease.

The planting process itself also needs to be paid attention. The hole must be dug in a week, and it should be one and a half times larger than the roots of the seedling

At the bottom, you can put crushed stone or broken brick as drainage. One part of the excavated soil should be used for dusting the roots, and the other for mixing with mineral additives.

Lighting

Liriodendron loves direct sunlight, as the tree comes from countries with warm climates. Even in summer, at high temperatures, it feels comfortable

Therefore, when disembarking, it is important to avoid places located on the north side. A tulip tree should not be planted in windy areas; from strong winds and drafts, delicate young branches can easily break

Humidity

Although liriodendron loves moisture, an excessive amount of it can die. Before planting, be sure to carry out the drainage procedure. Water the plant as needed, depending on the temperature conditions.

It is necessary to monitor not only the moisture content of the soil, but also the air: the optimal level is 65 percent.

Temperature

With proper care, a tulip tree can be grown even in the Moscow region, since the plant is frost-resistant. In hot and excessively dry regions, the plant will not take root, it will grow poorly.

At home, when growing this representative of the flora, you can encounter certain difficulties associated with its rather large size. Flower pots must be selected taking into account these plant growth characteristics. It is not recommended to place them near windows, entrance doors and air conditioners in order to exclude a draft. The temperature in the summer in the room should not be higher than +26 degrees, in winter - not lower than +10 degrees.

Watering and fertilizing

Watering the tulip tree should be moderate; with excessive moisture, root rot will occur. In the first two years of a young tree's life, it is worth using water at room temperature for irrigation. Watering the crown from a hose, on which a special nozzle is put on, is encouraged. It is better to carry out this water procedure in the evening - after five hours, so that the scorching sun does not burn the leaves.

A year after planting, in early spring, it is necessary to feed the seedling: first with mineral fertilizer with a nitrogen content, and then with a potassium and phosphorus content.

In the fall, pay attention to organic supplements. To use poultry manure as fertilizer, you need to have some knowledge about this procedure.

The droppings dissolved in water are insisted for several days. After that, it must be diluted with additional water so that the fertilizer does not burn the roots.

Preparing for winter

A tulip tree is capable of overwintering at temperatures not lower than +25 degrees. But despite this, young plants should be provided with additional care, as they are most susceptible to weather changes. In autumn, the mulch is renewed: the top layer is about 10-12 cm. Sawdust, peat and compost are suitable as a protective layer for covering the near-stem circle. Before the winter cold, the trees are insulated: they construct a burlap cape in 2-3 layers, apply it to the trunk and carefully bandage it.

In early spring, you need to closely monitor weather changes. In case of scorching sunlight, it is worth removing the cap, and in case of frost, return it to its place. If you carefully care for this exotic plant, then it will delight you for many years.


Planting tulips correctly: when and how?

Tulips, like all spring flowers, are loved by many. They bloom at a time when the whole nature is actively raging, which together cannot but delight the eye and soul. That is why it is worth decorating your flower garden with tulips.Breeders have bred a huge number of varieties of this flower. There are tulips not only of different colors, but also of varying degrees of terry. Choosing them to decorate the garden, you definitely will not go wrong.

For tulips to grow well and bloom profusely, it is important to plant them correctly. In this matter:

  • landing time
  • a place
  • soil type
  • planting depth.

If all these conditions are optimal, then tulips will bloom profusely and on time.


Outdoor daffodil care

If you take proper care of the daffodils, these wonderful blooms will grow well and delight you with abundant flowering. To do this, you only need to follow the standard care recommendations: water moderately, feed regularly, weed and loosen if necessary.

Daffodils love watering, especially in early spring, during the period of the beginning of growth and formation of green mass, budding and flowering, as well as at the end of it (it is at this time that the bulb is stocked with food).

For better flowering, daffodils should be fed several times:


  1. In early spring, when the first greens appear, ammonium nitrate or nitrophos or some other nitrogen fertilizer. You can also make a green fertilizer (herbal infusion).
  2. During the period of bud formation - potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.
  3. During the flowering period - also fertilizer with a high content of potassium and phosphorus.
  4. After flowering, it is recommended to apply phosphorus fertilization. Superphosphate is ideal.

Note! In order not to burn the root system of the plant, it is advisable to water it before feeding.

So that the plant does not waste its energy senselessly, its fading buds (future seed boxes) should be removed in time. And then you can beautifully weave braids from the remaining leaves (they cannot be cut off, through them the bulbs accumulate nutrients).

Video: what to do with daffodils after flowering

Digging the bulbs

Daffodil bulbs should be dug out at least once every 5-6 years, although, for example, the same tulips - once every 3 years. It is possible more often, but if you accidentally damage them a little, then there will be a very high probability of the disease. In other words, these bulbs do not like to be touched and transplanted once again, however, this must be done once every 6 years, otherwise the flowers are too crushed and become simply ugly.

When to dig up daffodil bulbs?

The main signal for digging is yellowing of the tips of the leaves (the bush becomes lethargic, and the leaves begin to fall on the ground). As a rule, this occurs on average a little less than 1.5-2 months after flowering (that is, in May-June). If you are late, the flowers can take root, which will be very easy to damage when digging up.

Advice! In order not to damage the bulbs, dig them out using a special miniature garden fork or a shovel, but very, very carefully.

The dug out bulbs must first be cleaned of soil, inspected for damage (discarded), and then the bulbs must be treated in one of the disinfecting solutions, for example, in the same potassium permanganate or in the fungicide "Maxim Dachnik" or "Fundazol". Next, you need to dry in a shady (not in the sun!) And warm place for 10-14 days. For storage, put it in a box (you can also put it in a plastic one, the main thing is that with holes) or a cardboard box. The storage space should be cool and well ventilated, such as a cellar.


When to plant, variety selection, preparation of bulbs and soil, protection in winter

The beauty and unpretentiousness of such a flowering plant as a tulip is well known. These bulbous flowers delight flower growers in the earliest spring time. However, it is quite difficult to grow tulips in Siberia. This is due not only to the freezing of the soil 1 m and deeper, but also to such a fairly frequent phenomenon as strong return frosts.

When and how to plant

When autumn comes, Siberian flower growers are preparing to plant tulips. The most illuminated area should be chosen under the flower garden, which should be well sheltered from the winds. However, air stagnation should be avoided, as it can provoke the occurrence of fungal diseases on plants.

The fertile soil layer should not be less than 40 cm. Before planting tulips, it is important to thoroughly dig up the soil and add humus, as well as mineral fertilizers and wood ash. The very process of planting tulips in Siberia in the fall is based on the preparation of planting holes, the depth of which should not be less than 15 cm. A shallower planting can provoke freezing of the planting material. However, significant deepening is also not desirable. It will not allow plants to break through the thickness of the earth.

The standard distance between all planting holes of 10 cm must be maintained. When using small planting material, it is allowed to reduce the distance between plants. The peculiarity of planting in Siberia involves such an arrangement of bulbs, in which one large onion should be planted and duplicated with smaller ones.

A good option is to plant tulips according to varietal accessories. In addition, it is important to follow the agrotechnics of growing tulips as closely as possible and strictly observe the timing of planting plants in the soil of flower beds in the fall. When there is a need to protect the bulbs from rodents, an effective way is to use poisoned baits after snow falls. These baits are buried as far as possible to protect pets from possible eating and poisoning.

Variety selection

Experience and practice show that almost all varieties of tulips grow and bloom very successfully on the territory of this region. However, experienced florists recommend planting:

  • terry varieties of early tulips: Bonanza, Carlton and Dante
  • simple varieties of early tulips: "Diamond Star", "Christmass Marvel", "Diana" and "General de Vet"
  • varieties of Triumph tulips: "Bandung" and "Topskor"
  • Darwin hybrids: Dardanelles, Diplomat, Parade and Dover
  • grade "Black Boy "Rembrandt Tulip.

In addition, the earliest varieties show a good result, of which it is recommended to plant "Ibis Mont Tresor", as well as Cooler Cardinal. Also in the category of early growing tulips, which are planted in the fall, include varieties Murillo, Extra and Double. Autumn planting of the well-known yellow tulip is very popular among Siberian flower growers. "Monte Carlo". The autumn planting of these flowering bulbs has proven itself positively.

Forcing for the New Year involves the use of varieties such as:

  • Diamond Star
  • Dixis Favorite
  • Christmas marvel
  • Miles Bridge
  • Lustig Battle
  • Olga
  • Epricot Beauty.

How to plant tulips correctly (video)

For distillation in April, you need to plant:

  • Hell Rem
  • America
  • Apeldoorn
  • Apeldoorns Elite
  • Burgundy Lace
  • Vivex
  • Gordon Cooper
  • Daydream
  • Keys Nelis.

When you want to drive out flowers for the May holidays, varieties are planted:

  • Aristocrat
  • Diplomat
  • London.

Of course, you can plant other varieties of tulips for forcing, but planting these bulbs showed the best results.

Regardless of which variety will need to be planted in the fall, it is extremely important to observe the planting dates, as well as to prepare the soil and planting material for planting according to the technology of growing bulbous flowering plants.

Preparation of bulbs and soil

The main condition for obtaining high-quality tulip flowering in the spring is the use of planting soil, which has good physical properties. It is extremely important to plant bulbs in soil that has sufficient moisture capacity, and is also characterized by looseness and air capacity. When there is no soil on the site with these properties, the situation can be corrected by applying fertilizers, as well as using top dressing.

It is best if the autumn planting is carried out in highly cultivated, humus-rich sandy loam and loam with a neutral type of reaction. To bring imperfect soil to an optimal state, special techniques should be used. A particular lack of sandy soil for planting and growing bulbous flowering plants such as tulips is that it dries quickly and is poor in nutrients. More frequent watering of plants, as well as regular application of fertilizers allows you to level these defects.

The heavy version of clay soils needs more radical improvements through the introduction of coarse fractions of river sand, peat, as well as high-quality manure or other organic matter. This will significantly increase the water permeability parameters and improve air access to the root system.

When peat is used for improvement, its acidity should be neutralized by liming the soil or adding chalk. The optimal indicator for planting and growing tulips is acidity from pH = 6.5 to pH = 7.8. During the growing season, the use of heavy soil requires more frequent loosening.

Winter protection

Shelter tulips for the winter should only be done when planting too late in the northern regions. For Dutch tulip bulbs, which originally grew in conditions of other climatic factors, it is advisable to cover with fallen leaves, peat, high-quality humus or sawdust. It is allowed to use it as a material for covering straw. It will protect plants in extremely cold or snowless winters. In addition, this coating saves plantings during sudden thaws, which are not uncommon in recent years even in Siberia.

You should not rush to complete the shelter. As a rule, you need to cover the plant when a stable subzero temperature is established, and the depth of freezing of the soil of flower beds is 5 cm.

In addition, it is important to protect the planting of flowering bulbous plants from the attacks of rodents, which actively use the planting material of such flowers for winter nutrition. For this purpose, you can use not only purchased chemical highly toxic agents, but also time-tested folk methods.

We also recommend that you read the article on the features of choosing a variety and planting tulips.

Planting tulips in autumn (video)

Having completed the coating in the autumn in order to protect the planting of tulips from freezing, it is important in the spring to remove the covering layer from the bulbous plants in a timely manner. In conditions of anomalous winter with little snow, the soil is subjected to strong freezing. This provokes deformation of the tulips. However, the belated elimination of the shelter can cause the newly appeared sprouts to decay, and can also significantly delay the growth rate of the plant in the spring.