Radermacher: all the nuances of caring for a plant at home

 Radermacher: all the nuances of caring for a plant at home

Radermacher, popularly called "indoor ash", "snake tree" or "Chinese doll", is an exotic plant that began to be grown as an indoor plant quite recently, in the middle of the 20th century. Radermacher is valued by flower growers for its beautiful foliage, since it is almost impossible to achieve flowering "in captivity", but the crown of the tree is so expressive that it will undoubtedly become a wonderful decoration of the room. Caring for a crop at home is not difficult, even a novice florist can grow a radermaker.

Origin and description of the radermacher

Radermacher is a spectacular plant. In its natural environment, the tree can reach 40 m. At home, its height is limited to 1–1.5 m.

It is interesting! There is a genus of Radermacher in the Bignoniev family, to which the plant of the same name belongs. This tree is distributed in the southeast of Asia. The plant got its name in honor of the Danish naturalist Jacob Radermacher, who first described it in the 18th century.

In nature, the radermacher is found mainly in Southeast Asia.

The bloom of the radermacher is impressive. Large yellow or white-orange bells open on the tree. However, it should be noted that at home this is an extremely rare phenomenon, and the species is valued by flower growers primarily for its decorative foliage.

A feature of the flowering of a radermacher is that its flowers open exclusively at night, filling the air around with a light scent of cinnamon or jasmine.

The plant has a lush crown with large shiny leaves of a rich emerald color, divided into several small segments.

Home-grown species

Currently, botanists have described 17 species of radermacher. Among them are:

  1. Radermachera ignea. The plant is also known as the jasmine tree. It grows in the northern regions of Thailand, Laos, also found in Burma and Hainan. It reaches a height of 20 m, blooms with orange flowers that bloom directly on the trunk.
  2. Radermachera ramiflora. It grows in humid forests on the island of Borneo. The tree reaches 30 m in height, the thickness of the trunk is up to 30 cm in diameter. The foliage has a grayish tint, and the flowers are yellow. The fruits are very large (70 cm long).
  3. Radermachera xylocarpа. Grows in India. Flowers do not appear on the trunk, but on the shoots.

However, despite all the species diversity of the plant, only one species is grown as an indoor plant - the Chinese Radermachera (Radermachera chinensis). Its distinctive feature is large glossy leaves, reaching 70 cm in length and 25 cm in width. The leaf blade is divided into several small segments up to 4 cm long.

The most common types of radermachers in the photo

Table: conditions for growing a radermacher

ShineA radermaker needs a diffused light. The tree grows well in partial shade, but it can easily withstand intense sunlight for a short time. An east or west orientation window is best suited for positioning a radermaker. You can put the plant near a south-facing window, but shade it from direct sunlight with a curtain. Periodically, the radermacher needs to turn, as it stretches towards the sun, as a result of which the bush can deform.
TemperatureThe flower is quite thermophilic, but does not tolerate heat. The usual room temperature (+ 22–25 ºС) is comfortable for him, in the autumn-winter period, in order to arrange a period of relative rest, the temperature can be reduced to approximately +16 ºС, but not lower than +11 ºС.
Air humidityRadermacher is hygrophilous, for harmonious growth she needs frequent spraying, although she usually tolerates dry indoor air well. Water should be sprayed around the tree. From time to time in the summer you can arrange a warm shower.

The subtleties of planting and transplanting

The best time to transplant a radermacher is the beginning of spring. At this time, the tree begins to grow actively after the winter "rest". For young specimens under the age of 5 years, the transplant is an annual procedure.

Adult radermakers should be replanted much less frequently, about every three years and only under the condition that the tree has become cramped in the pot, if not, it is enough to replace the topsoil (4–5 cm).

The roots of the tree are quite powerful, so the container for the radermaker is chosen wide and deep, but not too large. The basic rule that should be followed when choosing a flowerpot for a tree is that its volume should be equal to the size of the root system. A small container will hold back the rapid growth of the tree, and in a too large container, the soil will begin to sour, and the tree will ache.

A ready-made substrate for palms or citrus fruits is suitable for planting a radermacher, but it is best to prepare the soil yourself from the following ingredients:

  • humus (part 1);
  • coarse sand (1 part);
  • sheet soil or garden soil (2 parts);
  • pine bark (0.5 parts).

Transplanting radermachers:

  1. Although the radermaker is hygrophilous, it does not tolerate stagnant water, so good drainage is vital for the plant. Pour gravel, pebbles or expanded clay on the bottom of the container in a layer of at least 5 cm.

    Expanded clay - the best drainage for a radermaker

  2. Place prepared substrate (3-4 cm) on the drainage layer. The radermacher's roots must not come into contact with stones. Moisten this layer slightly.

    The substrate requires loose but nutritious

  3. Remove the radermacher from the old flowerpot by gently pushing on its walls. Shake the earth as much as possible.

  4. Rinse the roots. Cut them by a third, dry a little.
  5. Put the tree in a new flowerpot, fill the gaps between the walls and roots with earth, lightly tamping it with your palm.

    Repot the plant when it gets cramped in the pot.

  6. Water the transplanted radermacher and put it in a semi-shady place.

In the first days after transplanting, the plant may wither slightly, but after rooting it will recover.

Care advice

Watering mode

Radermacher is quite hygrophilous. She needs abundant watering, but it is not worth pouring it, because with excessive dampness, fusarium can develop. Also, do not allow the soil to completely dry out.

During periods of active growth (spring and summer), water the radermaker liberally immediately after the top layer of soil in the container has dried.

With the onset of autumn, the number and volume of watering should be reduced. Moisten the soil during this period two days after the top layer has dried.

Top dressing radermachers depending on the season

In the period from April to August, feed with a balanced fertilizer for decorative foliage plants, for example, Kemira Lux. At the beginning of the season, the plant needs fertilizing with a predominance of nitrogen to grow foliage, and closer to autumn, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers should be applied.

Fertilization period - April to August

Dilute the fertilizer in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations on the packaging. Experienced growers advise moistening the substrate before applying top dressing and pouring it with a nutrient solution after one to two hours.

Radermacher responds well to foliar feeding. Leaves can be sprayed with a half strength fertilizer solution. With this procedure, nutrients are absorbed much faster, and the foliage acquires a bright emerald hue.

Pruning and shaping the crown

Radermacher can be grown as a tree or as a lush bush. In the first case, remove all lateral shoots from the lower half of the central trunk throughout the growing season. To make the radermacher grow a lush bush, pinch the upper buds of each of the shoots as they grow back.

To make the radermacher grow a lush bush, pinch the upper buds of each of the shoots as it grows

Table: possible mistakes of the florist when leaving

ProblemProbable cause and remedies
Shoots are stretchedThis usually happens in winter when there is a lack of light. Keep the radermaker in a cool place and brightly lit. Can be supplemented with fluorescent lamps.
The tips of the leaves dry, the leaf blades lose their turgor and witherIndoor air too dry or insufficient watering. Moisten the soil as the top soil in the pot dries. The same thing happens when the light is too intense. In this case, move the radermaker to partial shade.
Leaves grow shallow, fadeLack of light and nutrients. Provide the flower with bright, diffused light. Perform foliar top dressing with complex fertilizer.
Leaves turn yellow and fall offLack of light. Place the pot close to the window or supplement it with fluorescent lamps.

Common diseases and pests

Radermacher is resistant to diseases and pests and is rarely affected by them with proper care. If the cultivation technique is violated, the plant suffers from fusarium (root rot), from pests it is attacked by red spider mites, aphids and mealybugs.

The main reason for the appearance of pests is improper agricultural technology.

Table: Diseases and Pests Typical for Radermakers

Disease or pestSignsTreatment and prevention methods
Root rotThe trunk softens, black spots appear on it (starting at the base and spreading higher).Transplant the tree by replacing the container and substrate. If the disease has not gone far, rinse the roots, cut off with a clean knife all those affected by rot. Sprinkle the slices with crushed activated carbon, let dry for one to two hours. Plant the radermacher in fresh fungicide-treated substrate.
Spider miteThe leaf blades turn pale, curl and dry out. A thin cobweb is visible on the underside.Tear off the infected leaves and destroy, treat the rest with any insecticide. Perform 3-4 treatments at weekly intervals. The pest appears when the air is too dry, so spray the leaves frequently to prevent infestation.
AphidShoots are deformed, green insects are visible on them.Using a sponge, apply a thick lather mixed with tobacco dust to the leaves. Two or three times is enough to remove all aphids. After washing, treat the radermacher with Actellik's solution (1-2 ml per 1 liter of water).
MealybugBalls of an off-white hue appear on the leaves.Treat the plant with a solution of Aktara or Actellik. Perform three treatments 5-7 days apart.

Reproduction of a plant at home

Radermacher reproduces by means of cuttings and cuttings. The first method is quite effective, but it is only suitable for obtaining new specimens from an adult plant with a lignified trunk. Cuttings can be obtained even from a young tree.

Propagation of radermachers by air layering

  1. Make a small cut in the barrel with a clean knife.
  2. Moss the sphagnum moss and wrap it around the incision.
  3. Cover the moss with plastic wrap on top and fix the structure with electrical tape or tape.
  4. After the young roots fill all the space under the film, carefully remove it and the moss.
  5. Cut off a part of the shoot with roots and plant it in a nutritious loose substrate, having previously moistened it well.
  6. Next, take care of the same as for an adult plant.

    The method is quite effective, but only suitable for obtaining new specimens from an adult plant with a lignified trunk.

Rooting cuttings

  1. The best time for the procedure is May or early June. Cut off the leaf along with the internode and part of the stem.
  2. Powder the lower part of the cutting with crushed activated carbon or dip it in a root stimulator.
  3. Mix peat chips and sand (1: 1). Moisten the substrate and plant the cuttings in it, deepening their lower part by about 2-3 cm. Cover the top of the planting with a glass or plastic transparent cover.
  4. Place the greenhouse in a warm and sunny place. Ventilate and moisturize it regularly.

Cuttings take root pretty quickly. Already after 1.5–2 months, young plants can be planted in a common substrate for a tree.

Dip the lower part of the cutting into a rooting stimulator

Florist reviews

Video: Chinese radermacher

Radermacher is a magnificent plant with a lush crown and glossy leaves. It can decorate even the most ordinary interior, and with proper care, the tree turns into a large plant and pleases its owners for many years.

The uplifting peperomia: how to care for a flower

Peperomia is still little known to Russian home amateur flower growers. But the plant is steadily gaining popularity. Leaves of various shapes and shades will not go unnoticed even in the largest collection of indoor plants. Additional advantages of the flower are compactness (even diminutiveness) and undemanding care. And creating comfortable conditions for peperomias is very simple.

Description of the origin and appearance of pakhira

Pakhira is a representative of the Bombax family and a close relative of the baobab. It grows in tropical regions of Africa, India, as well as in South and Central America. The climate in the habitats of the plant is very changeable - drought replaces high humidity. This abrupt change in climate affected the ability of pakhira to accumulate moisture for future use.

Under natural conditions, pakhira grows up to 20 m in height. In indoor cultivation, its growth is limited to 2 - 3 m. If the area of ​​the plant is limited, its growth can be fully controlled by pruning young shoots in time.

Under natural conditions, pakhira grows into a mighty tree

The thickening at the bottom of the stem, making the pakhira look like a bottle, is a characteristic feature of the plant. A special cavity accumulates liquid, which is necessary during the dry period. Because of this feature, the pakhira was nicknamed the bottle tree.

The pakhira got its name, which translates as "plump", because of the shape of the trunk.

Leaves are palmate-compound, leathery, located on long petioles and colored green. Very similar to chestnut leaves. Due to their shape, pakhira is often called Malabar or Guiana chestnut.

Pakhira is called Malabar chestnut because of the similarity of plant leaves.

Do not use special waxes or polishing compounds for processing, as they can cause the leaves to die off. To make the leaves shine, it is enough to wipe them from dust with a damp cloth.

Pakhira blooms only in nature, sometimes in a greenhouse. The flowers are very beautiful, large, up to 35 cm in diameter. The inflorescence resembles a panicle. At home, achieving flowering is an impossible task.

You can admire the flowering of pakhira only in natural conditions.

In place of a faded inflorescence, fruits appear - oval-shaped berries of olive color, up to 25 cm long. The seeds are quite edible, they are eaten raw and fried.

Each fruit contains up to 25 seeds

Home care requires certain knowledge and skills. But this does not mean at all that a novice florist will not be able to cope with the cultivation of pakhira.

Caring for pakhira at home is not difficult at all

Varieties suitable for indoor floriculture

The genus of pakhira includes 45 species. But not all of them are grown in indoor floriculture.

Pakhira water (aquatic). This is the only species that can be successfully kept in an apartment. It can grow up to 3 m in height, the volume of the crown is 1.5 m in diameter. Grows slowly at home. The leaves have a glossy finish.Over time, they form a dense crown. A cultivated plant does not bloom at home.

Pakhira is silvery. It is very similar to water pakhira, but its distinctive feature is the silvery stripes on the green foliage.

Pakhira is round-leaved. It is extremely rare in culture. Its feature is long shoots covered with round leaves. It is used as an ampelous plant for decorating offices, shop windows.

Pakhira aquatic is the only species that grows at home

How to take care of a radermacher video

Dust and dry air negatively affect the growth of the emerald tree. If renovations are planned in the house, it is better to remove the pot from a safe place. Although the Radermacher purifies the air, it will not tolerate excessive air pollution. Also, do not place the pot where cosmetics are often used, such as perfume or eau de toilette. Since the plant does not tolerate exhaust gases and tobacco smoke, it is better not to put it on windows overlooking the roadway.

With proper care and optimal conditions for the development of a radermacher, it grows quite quickly. The result is a tree up to 70 cm high with lush and dense foliage of emerald color, which will become a real favorite for flower growers.

← Hippeastrum: description of types and recommendations for care at home ← Dieffenbachia indoor: description of types and recommendations for care at home

Plant care


Syngoniums do not like intense lighting. In bright light, the leaves of plants turn pale, lose turgor and wither. East-facing windows are best suited for them, they can also grow well inside the room, away from the light source.

Syngoniums should not be placed near light sources

Watering mode

Syngonium is a "water crust", it needs abundant watering throughout the year. In this case, you need to ensure that water does not stagnate in the pan (excessive dampness can lead to decay of the roots).

Drain excess moisture from the pan after each watering.

In winter, watering is required abundant, but not very frequent, moisten the plant a day after the top layer of the earth dries out (about once a week).


Liana responds to feeding with excellent growth and bright juicy foliage. Fertilizers should be applied two months after planting. Until this time, the syngonium has enough nutrients that it receives from the fresh substrate.

Any complex fertilizer is suitable for feeding syngonium

Fertilize syngonium in spring and summer twice a month with a solution of a special mineral fertilizer. Any preparation for decorative deciduous plants is suitable (it is especially convenient to use liquid forms). With the onset of autumn, stop feeding completely.

Shaping and pruning

The syngonium can be formed in the form of a neat bush, ampelous plant, and also allow the liana to grow upward, wrapping around the support.

How to form a lush bush

To form a lush bush, the flower must be periodically pinched over the fifth or sixth leaf. This is done year-round, as soon as the shoot begins to grow.

Despite the fact that the syngonium is a liana, it can be grown in the form of a bush

Ampel plant in your home

When forming a syngonium in the form of an ampelous plant, it is not required to pinch the shoots, they are allowed to grow to the desired size. A flower of this shape looks great in hanging baskets and pots.

Ampel form is natural for syngonium

Plant braiding support

The syngoniums that braid the support are very decorative. It can be any wooden stalk wrapped in moss or coconut fiber.

Very decorative syngoniums, braiding the support

The support should be installed in the container during transplantation. For this:

  1. Pour drainage and soil at the bottom of the container, stick a stick into it.
  2. Arrange the plants by spreading the roots around the support.
  3. Fill the voids with substrate and compact it.

On such a support, the shoots of the vines will curl, as a result, a spectacular plant reaching two meters in height will be obtained.

Video: caring for the syngonium

Reproduction of vriezia

There are two ways of breeding Vrieseia. New specimens can be obtained by planting children, or grown from seeds. The most effective method of reproduction is vegetative, it is most often used by flower growers. Fruits rarely appear in an apartment, but when the right conditions are created, it is quite possible to get them.

Reproduction by children - a step-by-step process

  1. After the end of flowering, the mother plant will begin to die off, and lateral processes will form on it during this period. Do not rush to separate them, the children should form a good root system. This will take a year.
  2. Carefully remove the vriezia with the children from the container.
  3. Shake the soil off the roots and rinse them in standing water.
  4. Use a knife to cut off the babies so that each specimen has roots.
  5. Sprinkle all the sections with crushed activated charcoal.
  6. Let the treated shoots dry for 24 hours.
  7. Prepare flowerpots for new plants. Rinse them, treat with a fungicide solution.
  8. Pour expanded clay at the bottom, then a layer of soil. Place the baby and fill the voids with the substrate. Do not crush the earth.
  9. The planted Vriezia baby really needs warmth, so cover the container with a cut PET bottle and put it on a light window. Ventilate the greenhouse periodically, each time increasing the treatment time and accustoming young plants to the environment.
  10. Two months after planting, the greenhouse can be completely removed.
  11. The subsequent care for Vrieseia is the same as for an adult specimen.

Reproduction by children is the most effective method

Seed propagation - step by step process

A plant grown from seed usually does not retain varietal characteristics, but this adds interest to the process. You can get flowers with different colors of leaf blades and inflorescences. When propagated by the seed method, flowering occurs only in the fifth or sixth year. Usually this method is used when growing Vriezia in greenhouse conditions to obtain a large number of healthy, young specimens.

  1. Before planting, soak the seeds of vriezia in a weak solution of potassium permanganate and dry.
  2. Pour a potting mixture of peat and sand, taken in equal proportions, into a bowl.
  3. Spread the treated seeds onto the prepared substrate.
  4. Moisten with a spray bottle and cover with a transparent lid or plastic wrap.
  5. Place the bowl in a warm place.
  6. Ventilate and moisturize plantings periodically.
  7. Seedlings will appear in about 4-5 weeks.
  8. After the seedling has a third true leaf, plant it in separate containers.
  9. After six months, transplant the young vriezii to a permanent place.

A plant grown from seed usually does not retain varietal traits

Living wall of peperomia - video

This peperoshka is very happy. She is joyful, cheerful. I call it Peperomia magnolia-leaved "Golden Gate". But maybe I'm wrong. Young leaves are yellow, really golden. The old ones lose their yellow color and become silver. I have been growing for 2 years. While she is upright. It grows slowly. I don't want it to fall over and turn into an ampel. Probably the tops will have to be re-rooted in the spring.


I have a mix of peperomias growing. I want all sorts of different, but little space. Therefore, we have to make a communal apartment. When they outgrow, I cut off the tops of them.

Lena I

This winter I bought three small unrooted cuttings of monofilament peperomia. At first, it grew very slowly, and the color of the leaves was pale, and in May it was very well pricked up, side shoots from the main branches climbed, which also then, if spread along the ground, took root. I like her very much


It is believed that peperomia can improve the energy field in the house, making it cleaner, preventing negative emotions from manifesting. In a word, the flower adjusts only to the positive)


Due to the variety of colors and shapes, peperomia can work a miracle in an apartment. Even if you have very little space for flowers, this plant will help create a comfortable and cozy corner. And unpretentious care will make him a welcome guest in any home.

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