Spain, Basque Country, Cantabria and Asturias - Story of my trip to Spain

Spain, Basque Country, Cantabria and Asturias - Story of my trip to Spain


Basque Country, Cantabria and Asturias: the crisp air of Atlantic Spain

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DAY 3:

We found several hotels that serve breakfast starting at 09:30, as if to say "Take it easy, you're on vacation!". So, at 9:32 minutes we show up for a quick breakfast, without infamy and without praise. We ask the owner about the weather .... he does a quick check on the web, and answers with a smile "Sun!", While observing threatening black clouds gather on the surrounding hills and an eyebrow rises, like Doctor "Spock" .. ... We are in the area of ​​the Picos de Europa National Park, very popular with those who practice mountaineering and trekking, with peaks over 2600mt high. Today a rapid passage between these mountains is planned, before returning to the coast. We leave late, also because of the breakfast time, the AutoviaCantabrica is very messed up, and we take a lot of time to get inside the Picos. As soon as you leave the village of Panes, the clouds clear, and give way to a very blue sky. We enter the very narrow gorges of the Picos. The road is spectacular for the way it has been carved into the rock. We pass the microscopic village of La Hermida, which for a few months a year does not even see the sun, given its position in the middle of the gorges, and after a lot of bends we arrive at the beautiful Romanesque church of Lebena. Here the valley widens, and it is quite hot. We take some photos, but we do not participate in the guided tour. The day is wonderful, but the roads here in the mountains do not allow great speeds. So we decide to go back for a while, and take the state road that runs along the northern part of the Picos, skipping the localities of Cangas de Onis and the other points of interest we had to meet initially. The landscape is very wild, you can see a lot of birds of prey circling in the sky, but of mountains in Italy, we have dozens more beautiful than these; certainly the place would be more appreciated by following some of the many paths that are found there.

So we continue on the N-621 up to Panes, and then towards Las Arenas. The road is a little smoother, and there are beautiful views of the Picos. From the AS-114 we descend towards the coast, and make the last stop of the day in Lastres. The town is very pretty, all perched on the rocks, and ends with a small marina and adjoining beach. Here you are really divinely. We sit on a bench to relax a bit, the sun doesn't beat down anymore, and its warm light illuminates the fishermen's houses. Some children play in the sand, others bathe. We stop in a local bakery, where we buy some typical apple-based sweets and something to drink, in case it throws badly for dinner. Then off to our hotel in Cudillero.

Lastres rating: 7

We arrive shortly, fortunately this section of the Autovia Cantabrica is super-fast, 120 km / h constantly. We find the Casona de Lupac hotel with some difficulty. It is in a quiet but beautiful location. It is a pity not to have the time to be able to enjoy the services. We go out to look for something to eat, and take a look at the town that the guides describe as a little gem. We realize that finding a place for the car here is not very easy, so we park at the beginning of the town and then walk down the only asphalted road, which winds its way through houses with large Portuguese-style windows. The houses are built around the side of the mountain, one on top of the other. Suddenly the road ends its descent, widens to form a spectacular rounded square, all surrounded by pastel-colored houses. Many lanterns are lighting up, the restaurant tables are still half empty. A little further on the portico with a myriad of noisy seagulls circling overhead. It might be the reddish light of the sunset or whatever, but it's really nice here! We look for a place to eat just outside the main square, we sit in a place a little less noisy than the others. After having already ordered, we notice that at a table next to it, our waiter is pouring beer on the floor ... what the heck is he doing ?? We look at the customers who admire it in amazement ...

We return to the waiter, and we realize that he is pouring a bottle (similar to a 66 cl heineken) of yellowish liquid from above his head into a large glass that he holds in the other hand ... only half of the liquid comes out on the ground or splash everywhere! After a few seconds of great concentration, the waiter places his glass on the table with two fingers of foamy and yellow drink ... The customers, apparently German or English, almost burst into applause. Only now do we understand that we have ended up in one of the many cider shops that are found in these areas .... where the typical drink is poured in this strange way, making it, it seems, obtain the right degree of gaseousness. Operation perhaps more spectacular than anything else. We have an excellent dinner, and take a stroll and a few photos between the illuminated square and the nearby harbor, with suggestive views of the bay.

Cudillero rating: 7.5


: After a more refined than abundant breakfast, we set off in the car. Today we have all day to dedicate to the Costa Verde up to Ribadeo, and a warm sun greets us since the morning.The coast around Cudillero offers some beautiful and scenic beaches (Playade Aguilar ...), and a lot of luxuriant vegetation that reaches as far as almost ashore. Proceed west, and take the road that leads to Cabo Vidio. The view from the lighthouse is very nice. The place is known, there are a few people. We take some photos and then we leave for Cabo Busto, passing greener and more wild landscapes. The road leading to the lighthouse is really small, and the place is much less touristic than the previous one. In some places you do not pass with 2 cars. The sun beats well now, it's pretty hot. Since it's time for lunch, we put the backpacks on our shoulders with the food purchased the day before, and we settle behind the lighthouse, with a splendid view of the ocean. There is no one, and so, after having refreshed ourselves, we follow the path that goes east as far as possible. Here too there are beautiful views, many seagulls and only the roar of the waves. We leave with the car that looks like an oven, we drive a few kilometers, and, following the suggestions of one of our guides, we stop in Luarca, another fishing village. It is wonderfully set in a scenic bay, coming from the road that comes from the lighthouse, it makes a great impression. We immediately see that there are a lot of people, and we leave our C3 parked at the top, so as not to have to cross the village on the restart. We go down several steps passing through characteristic lanes, until we reach the small port. The sun is still beating down, and the walk is not the most refreshing. The Portopero is very rich in life, a lot of fishing boats, all well cared for, I would say the most beautiful and colorful seen so far. It is a triumph of colors, from red to green, from blue to orange .... a show! We take a lot of photos, and witness the "water" games of some local kids, probably sons of fishermen. The town is very suggestive, it has a nice walk and some characteristic alleys in the center, but we have little time and it's really hot, it deserves definitely a more in-depth visit. We take the car back and, entering Asturias, we head towards our final destination, Playa As Catedrales. Fortunately, the Cantabrian highway in this section looks like a real highway, no traffic, so we can quickly catch up. We pass the Ribadeo fjord, and to our surprise, we discover that a highway exit has even been created for the beach. The landscape, also thanks to the warm light of the setting sun, is truly beautiful. Here everything, absolutely everything, recalls areas of northern Europe: very few houses scattered here and there in the green meadows, many sheep and cows, the ocean just a stone's throw away .... the area seems to be promising! We follow the signs for the "Road of the beaches", a small paved path that runs along several inlets, until we arrive at our destination. We are stunned to see a sea of ​​cars and campers in front of us ..... oh my, what a crowd! The peace and quiet you imagined a little earlier now seem to vanish completely. We find a place and follow the paved path. There are vendors and stalls around. Some explanatory signs along the route. In short we spot the beach and its rock formations ..... no doubt about it, they are very scenic, many white rock arches, some very particular shapes, beautiful green lawns around, but how many people on the beach .. ... some lying down, others walking, others running ..... Let's think about how this place must have been a few years ago, when it was not yet so well known (the 2003 Lonely Planet guide didn't even report it!), and how magical it must have been! be.Now, there is also a bar / restaurant built within walking distance of the beaches. Despite the intrinsic beauty, As Catedrales has disappointed us a lot due to the so many presence of tourists. We do not take pictures, we will be back in the morning, now it is very late and we still have to find the hotel in Porto de Rinlo, a few kilometers from there. It is a small but welcoming hotel, whose owner speaks Italian very well as he spent 1 year in Switzerland working as a waiter. We dine wonderfully and abundantly with seafood and cider, served by the owner's very kind daughter Marlene, and her boyfriend Ivan.

Costa Verde rating: 7.5

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