Collections

Quick and effective disposal of spider mites on a rose

Quick and effective disposal of spider mites on a rose


A spider mite on a rose is a fairly common phenomenon, and more often the pest appears not on garden plants, but on a room rose growing in a pot. The mite is a serious danger to roses, as it seriously damages the leaves and shoots, which leads to the death of the plant. Timely identification and elimination of the pest can save the rose, so the question is: how to get rid of the spider mite? - very relevant for florists. To combat insects, there are various methods and preparations, which will be discussed in the article.

Causes of occurrence

Spider mites thrive in dry and warm climates. For this reason, it appears more often on indoor roses. Often, in a room where plants are kept, the air is dry and warm - and these are ideal conditions for the reproduction of the pest. On garden roses, the insect appears only in the hot season. As a rule, such conditions are created during abnormal summer heat, when the daytime and nighttime air temperatures are practically the same. If the days are warm and the nights are cool and humid, then the likelihood of tick spreading is not high.

The appearance of ticks on indoor roses, by and large, is due to improper or insufficient care. If the plants are rarely watered, not sprayed, then soon various pests appear on them.

Of course, mites in a home don't come from nowhere. Most often they are brought in by pets or the wind, but sometimes they themselves crawl with the help of their webs. On roses growing in the garden, ticks get completely unhindered, since their habitat is soil, leaves and bark of trees.

Video "Fighting spider mites"

From the video you will learn how to deal with a tick on a rose.

Consequences of infection

The spider mite has a microscopic size (0.3-0.5 mm), therefore, it is almost impossible to see the parasite with the naked eye, and even more so, to notice its appearance on plants in time. Despite its size, it is a serious threat not only to roses, but to any other flowers, as well as garden crops, because by feeding on plant cells, the parasite causes irreparable harm to it.

The mite feeds on the sap of the leaves, which leads to the defeat of the leaf plate - first small dots appear on it, then the entire leaf is covered with spots. With the destruction of chlorophyll, the intensity of photosynthesis begins to decrease, and, as a result, the plant becomes weak and susceptible to infections. This greatly increases the risk of dying the bush. In addition, ticks themselves are active carriers of various pathogenic microorganisms.

If urgent action is not taken when a parasite is found, the plant will slowly die. Spider mites move very quickly from one plant to another, and also multiply intensively - at an air temperature of + 30 ° C, the entire reproduction cycle is 1 week. The tick lives for a relatively short time - on average one and a half months, but during this time the female can lay several hundred eggs, from which new pests will appear, and those, in turn, will produce the same number of parasites. It is impossible to stop this process without the use of special preparations, therefore, flower treatment must be started before the parasites have time to spread to the entire bush.

It is also important that the affected plant has a very unattractive aesthetic appearance. The upper part of the leaf plate becomes marbled (white or gray dots of different sizes appear). On the lower part, you can find live ticks of different ages, a light cobweb, as well as a thin light bloom - traces of the vital activity of parasites. In advanced cases, cobwebs and clusters of insect colonies in the form of a green mobile mass are clearly visible on the leaves.

Ways to fight

It is worth clarifying that it is difficult to deal with a tick, since all means act on living individuals, but there are still eggs, from which new pests regularly appear. It is noticed that at a normal room temperature of + 24-25 ° C, generations are replaced after 2-3 weeks, which means that during this time it is necessary to periodically process the plant, and do this until complete victory. If at least a few live individuals remain, then in just a couple of weeks they will multiply again and spread to the entire bush.

There are two ways to treat roses for ticks: chemicals and folk remedies. Preparations for spider mites on a rose are very effective, but do not forget that they have a toxic effect not only on pests, but also on the plant itself. Therefore, insecticides are recommended to be used only in advanced cases, when more gentle methods do not work.

To combat the tick, the following drugs are recommended: Actellik, Fitoverm, Fufanon, Neoron, Aktofit. These products are toxic, therefore, before using them, you must open the window, take care of rubber gloves and a respirator. Before starting treatment, the plant should be well watered, the leaves and stems should be washed with soapy water (after this procedure there will be fewer parasites), and only then sprayed. It is advisable to use several means in turn in order to avoid the addiction of pests to them.

Among the folk remedies, there are many recipes that allow you to fight the tick, but, unfortunately, they are effective only at the initial stage of infection:

Folk remedies are safe for plants and the environment, but their effectiveness in comparison with chemical preparations is much lower. If there are a lot of insects on the bush, you should not waste precious time - it is better to immediately start treatment with more serious means, strictly adhering to the recommendations in the instructions.

Prophylaxis

To prevent the appearance of spider mites, it is necessary to regularly and properly care for roses. Since the pest actively reproduces in hot and dry conditions, the first step is to provide high-quality moisture to the soil, air and the plant itself. In hot weather, it is recommended to spray roses with settled water at room temperature. At the same time, it is very important to ensure that the water on the leaves does not linger for a long time, since prolonged humidity contributes to the development of fungal diseases and putrefactive processes. You should also regularly remove dry leaves and faded buds - the mite can linger or settle in these parts of the plant, and gradually infect the entire bush.

Video "Consequences of a spider mite"

From the video you will learn what happens to roses if you do not fight the mite.


Spider mite is an ubiquitous pest

The spider mite is one of the most ubiquitous pests. It affects almost all plants except aquatic ones. Unfortunately, almost all indoor plant lovers sooner or later have to deal with this pest. In this article, we tried to collect as much useful information as possible about the features of this pest and the methods of prevention and control of it.

Common spider mite (Tetranychus urticae) © Gilles San Martin


What does a spider mite look like?

Spider mites are almost invisible on indoor plants. This is a tiny spider, 0.5-1mm in size, the body of which is colored brown, green, brown or gray. It causes harm to plants during its feeding.

Unfortunately, adult mites and their larvae feed on cell sap, which they extract by piercing the leaf plates with their jaws.

The leaves are first covered with small transparent dots, then turn yellow completely, and then dry up and fly around. At the same time, naturally, the plant ceases to develop normally, photosynthesis deteriorates and, in advanced cases, its death may occur.

Should there be a spider web

Despite the fact that the spider mite, judging from its name, is simply obliged to braid the plants with cobwebs, it does not always do this. Most species do secrete a filamentous secret, but sometimes in very small, imperceptible quantities. Only with excessive overpopulation, when there are too many individuals, they can entangle the entire plant with cobwebs.

Where does it come from

Sooner or later, any grower with an extensive collection of different types of plants will face this scourge. Naturally, the question arises: where does it fall on the poor head of our beloved flowers?

Well, firstly, the simplest: you can bring this infection from the store, along with the purchased new plant.

That is why it is recommended to first install each new inhabitant of the collection on an empty window sill - to arrange a quarantine. Only after a couple of weeks, if you do not notice anything strange, can the migrant be returned to the collective.

Also, a tick can get into the house from the street. This attack especially pursues the inhabitants of the lower floors, under whose windows there are trees - from them, on thin cobwebs, colonies of ticks fly directly to our plants. Naturally, if the plants are on the balcony, then it will be easier for ticks to get on them.

And it also happens that in the midst of the heating season, in winter, when the balcony does not open at all and new plants are not bought, a spider mite appears on flowers in all its glory. Where did it come from? The fact is that with the onset of cold weather (or other unfavorable factors), female ticks can hibernate, called diapause.

During this period, they do not feed, do not manifest themselves in any way, but lie in a motionless lump somewhere in the thickness of the earth.

They can stay in this form for a long time, but they wake up instantly when the weather for them changes for the better (remember, this is warm and dry). As for the eggs, they can generally be in the hibernation stage for about 5 years!

In order to decide how to deal with a spider mite, you need to learn more about the way it lives. This pest prefers a warm (above 27 degrees) place with low humidity. During her short life (1-1.5 months), the female can lay several hundred eggs, from which young ticks will emerge within 3-5 days.

This information is very important when persecuting pests - the treatment with poisons should be timed to the moment the young generation leaves the eggs. Unfortunately, most modern drugs do not work on eggs.

Spider mite resistant rose varieties

When flower growers come to a garden center where rose bushes are sold, it is difficult to choose the right variety, you want everything at once. However, one of the criteria to consider is the ability of the hybrid to resist disease and pests.

Then it will be much easier to take care of the “queen of the garden”.

Some modern varieties are bred by breeders for the purpose of resistance to adverse environmental factors. Popular are:

  1. Tea varieties - hybrid group:
    • "Sophia Loren"
    • Gloria Day
    • Renaissance series
    • "Erotica"
    • "Landora"
    • "Mainzer Fastnacht"
    • "Mister Lincoln"
    • "Polarstern".
  2. Floribunda representatives:
    • "Allotria"
    • "Bonica 82"
    • "Freesia"
    • "La Sevillana".
  3. Climbing roses:
    • "Flamentand"
    • "Goldfacad"
    • "Goldstern"
    • Golden Showers.
These few representatives more than others "hold the defense" against the appearance of diseases and pests, including from the spider mite.

But even the most resilient Roses will not be able to withstand a massive invasion. It is better only to prevent it. Many gardeners use old, proven recipes for biological pest control.
Source: "superda4nik.ru cvetok-v-dome.ru"


A cobweb appeared on a room rose, what to do, what measures to take?

  1. Control methods
  2. Folk remedies
  3. Chemicals
  4. Biologicals
  5. Effects
  6. Prophylaxis

White dots on the wilting leaves of a rose indicate a spider mite infection of the plant. He himself is barely visible to the naked eye (up to 0.6 mm). If you strain your eyes, then on the back of the leaf plate you can see clusters of inactive orange, brownish or off-white bugs sucking the juices from the leaves.

The infected plant needs urgent treatment, as the parasites breed and feed very intensively. The appearance of the cobweb means that the colony has grown to a large size.

Control methods

The main methods for the extermination of a spider mite on a rose (namely, how to deal with it at home):

  • chemicals
  • bioactive agents, biotechnological developments
  • folk methods that do not require financial costs.

During the first treatment of the rose, it is necessary to rinse windows, window sills, window frames and handles with a solution of laundry soap, it is also advisable to wash the curtains.

Spider mites move around the pot with a plant, females lay eggs not only in the soil, but also in any crevices. Without window treatment, the parasite will reappear. The eggs can remain viable for up to 5 years, which increases the risk of re-infestation of the rose in the same place.

After the first treatment of the plant, a second one (depending on the type of product) may be required after 5-7 days to destroy the young growth that has appeared.

Then it is advisable to change the drug and conduct a control spraying - adult spider mites are able to acquire resistance (addiction, adaptation) to poisons.

Folk remedies

If it is not possible to use chemicals in the house, you can use less fast-acting, but still working folk methods.

How to deal with spider mites on roses using improvised means:

  • every 3 days, rinse the bush with warm water under the shower for 2 weeks. The watering can goes sideways, not into the ground
  • treat the plant with a solution of household or tar soap: lather a sponge, wipe each leaf, stems, pot outside and put a small layer of foam on the soil. Leave on for 3-4 hours, then rinse off, laying the rose on one side. The soil is pre-covered with a film
  • put the rose under an ultraviolet lamp (with long or medium rays) for 1-2 minutes once a week. To get rid of a spider mite, 3-4 procedures are usually enough.

Herbal infusions can be used to treat roses from spider mites. Recipes:

  • garlic: 50 g of chopped vegetable, pour 3 liters of boiling water, leave for 5 days
  • dandelion: 40 g of chopped roots pour 2 liters of warm water, leave for 6 hours
  • onion peel: 100 g pour 1 liter of boiling water, leave for 5 days
  • tobacco: pour 50 g of raw materials with 1 liter of water, leave for a day.

While the infusions are being prepared, it is recommended to wash the rose with soap so as not to waste time and stop the development of spider mites. The top layer of soil (2-3 cm) must be replaced, since this is where the most parasite eggs are located.

The optimal conditions for the reproduction of spider mites are dry and warm air (25-27˚С). Between rose treatments, you can stop the ripening of eggs and the activity of females by increasing the humidity of the air: pour wet pebbles into a tray, cover the pot with wet moss or put it in a bag.

Chemicals

Spider mite chemicals (insecticides, acaricides) on the rose can be purchased at flower shops, hardware stores, or the relevant department of hypermarkets.

Several rules for processing with toxic agents (especially relevant for hazard class 1-2):

  • it is advisable to spray on the balcony or ensure good air circulation. It is better to cover the processed rose with a bag for a day
  • do not allow drugs to drip. The soil under the plant must be covered with polyethylene
  • protect nose and mouth with a mask, hands - with gloves. Put on a robe over the clothes, which must then be washed.

Chemicals against sucking parasites have different effects. Fumigant means that spider mites will die regardless of direct contact with the drug.Even those hiding under the leaves will be poisoned.

There is no need to turn the plant or sprayer. With the contact type of action, wetting of all surfaces is required. Regardless of the type of product, only a freshly prepared solution can be used.

How to treat a homemade rose from a spider mite:

  • Actellic (perimiphos-methyl). Hazard class 2. Spider mites begin to die literally a minute after spraying. After 2 hours, there will be no live individuals on the rose. The protective effect will last for 2 weeks after the last treatment. The solution is prepared at the rate of 2 ml per 1 liter of water, but according to the reviews of flower growers, it will be more effective to dilute a whole ampoule (5 ml) for this volume
  • "Neoron" (bromopropylate). A very effective agent that acts on the larvae and partially on the eggs of spider mites. Proportion for solution preparation: 15 ml per 10 liters of water. It is enough to process the rose once. Hazard class 3. Used for severe infection
  • "Nissoran" (Hexythiazox). 4 hazard class (low level of toxicity). The drug is hormonal - it does not kill adults, but stops the process of their reproduction, as well as the development of eggs and larvae. A single spraying is enough. Protects the rose for 50 days after treatment. The spider mite population dies within 10 days. If you urgently need to save the rose, then it is better to choose a more active remedy. Proportion: 1 g in 1 l of water
  • Sunmight (pyridaben). Hazard class 2. Affects spider mites at any stage of their development. The drug begins to work in 15 minutes, the period of protective action is up to 6 weeks. Proportion: 1 g per 1 liter of water. Rose processing is carried out once
  • "Fufanon" (malathion). Hazard class 3. Mites addictive, do not reuse. After the first treatment, the population dies within 24 hours. Proportion: 10 ml per 1 liter of water, in case of severe infection - 5 ml per 5 liters (some of the young leaves from the rose will fall off, but the pests will die all at once)
  • Apollo (clofentesin). Hazard class 4. Like Nissoran, it does not kill adult spider mites, but only sterilizes them. Proportions: 0.4 ml per 1 liter of water.

The above products are conveniently packaged (glass ampoules) and adapted for the treatment of home ornamental plants.

Substances of hazard class 2 can cause serious damage to health. In case of contact with skin, wash immediately with warm soapy water.

If inhaled or swallowed, drink 3-4 glasses of water, 2-4 tablespoons of Enterosgel or tablets of activated carbon (1 pc. Per 10 kg of weight). Call a doctor if you feel unwell.

Biologicals

To get rid of spider mites on indoor roses, it is preferable to use biological preparations such as "Akarin" (formerly "Agravertin"), "Fitoverm". Their active ingredient is neurotoxins (avermectins), produced by special soil fungi streptomycetes. The warmer the external environment, the more actively the product works.

For people and animals, such biological products are safe (you cannot drink, if they come into contact with the skin, wash off), and the parasites die after 2 days. They do not develop habituation. The eggs of mites do not destroy avermectins, so you will have to process the rose 2-3 times every 7 days, be sure to wet all parts of the plant. Proportion: 2 ml per 1 liter of water.

Bitoxibacillin is an effective biological preparation against spider mites on a rose. Its active ingredient is produced by spores of the pathogenic bacteria Bacillus thuringiensis. After processing, the rose will be protected for 20 days. Adult ticks die in 2-3 days.

The hatching larvae will also die from the poison. It is impossible to combine Bitoxibacillin with fertilizers and chemical pesticides. Its effectiveness increases when combined with the bio-agent "Lipidocide".

The drug is sold in suspension and powder form. The latter is more effective, since it contains a ready-made exotoxin. The proportion of solution preparation depends on the form of the preparation. The disadvantages of a powder agent are clogging of the sprayer nozzle.

Effects

Without timely treatment, an indoor rose attacked by spider mites will die in a few weeks. The drier and warmer the air, the faster the parasites will destroy the plant. At first, the leaves will simply lose their turgor (elasticity). Then small yellow-white dots will begin to appear on them, gradually merging into spots. The leaves fall off, the trunk dries out gradually.

Spider mites are mobile - all suitable plants located in the vicinity of the rose will also suffer from the invasion of parasites. At the first signs of damage, the flower pot must be isolated from others.

The leaves of the rose dry not only from ticks, but also from diseases. In order not to carry out processing in vain and not to aggravate the problem, you need to make sure that the parasite is present. Already at the initial stage of infection, it can be seen on the back of the leaf - several red dots that are easily smeared with a finger.

Spider mite on roses. The drug "Actellic". Garden World website

Prophylaxis

A spider mite can enter a house downwind through a window, with soil in new plants, or hatch from dormant eggs when conditions are favorable.

To prevent the rose from becoming covered with cobwebs, preventive measures must be followed:

  • do not allow air to dry out. You can regularly spray the plant on a leaf with settled water.
  • periodically treat with biological products
  • do not purchase plants with dangling pale or damaged leaves
  • do not put new flowers next to them until they have passed 2 weeks of quarantine.

To avoid relapses, window sills and windows should be periodically washed with a solution of laundry soap (or any alcoholic agent); it is also advisable to wash the curtains once a quarter.

Unhelpful measures: mosquito fumigators, pest rejects, freezing and boiling over plants (dangerous).

Indoor roses are one of the most commonly attacked plants by spider mites. In the initial stages, several washings with soapy water and subsequent observation are sufficient. Treatment with a biological or chemical agent is advisable in case of relapses.

If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl + Enter... We will definitely fix it, and you will have + karma


Preventive measures

  • The appearance of such a pest as a red spider mite is possible under conditions: dry air and low air humidity. Therefore, constant control over the indoor climate: ensuring high air humidity and timely spraying of the plant are the main preventive measures against the emergence and reproduction of this pest.
  • When spraying a flower, make sure that water does not remain in the core and does not accumulate between the leaves, as this can lead to decay.
  • Submerging the plant completely in water is ineffective because the spider mites surround themselves with an air bubble that appears when they come into contact with water.
  • Clean the flower regularly: remove faded flowers, collect old dry leaves, gently clean the dust.

Chemicals

The most effective are modern chemical preparations aimed at combating spider mites. It is advisable to choose special products, because insecticides developed against insects will not work. Acaricides and insectoacaricides help fight ticks. It will be possible to get rid of completely if you use the drugs several times after a certain period of time. Such a scheme will allow to destroy adults and larvae that emerged from the eggs after a while. Biologics are better for use, as they are less toxic.

The most popular drugs are:

  1. Neoron. A unique drug that destroys both adults and eggs. Two treatments will be enough. Dilute the contents of a 12.5 ml ampoule in 10 liters of water, mix thoroughly and spray.
  2. Fitoverm. Biological product with a low degree of toxicity. Spraying with Fitoverm should be done outdoors or in a well-ventilated area.
  3. Aktofit. The drug is used in a proportion of 4 ml per 1 liter of water. For spraying, it is better to choose 2 days without precipitation so that the rain does not wash the solution off the leaves.
  4. Aktara. It is used for most pests, but not against mites. The drug Aktara is diluted at the rate of 8 g per 10 liters of water. Spraying should be repeated after 10-15 days.
  5. Alatar. The biological product Alatar is diluted at the rate of 5 ml per 10 liters of water. The instructions recommend spraying 1 or 2 times to increase the effect.
  6. Actellic. The drug Actellik is a toxic insecticide with a pungent odor, therefore it is prohibited to use it indoors. Diluted with 1 ml per 1 liter of water. More suitable for indoor plants, since a large amount is required for the garden.
  7. Anti-mite. Effective against ticks. Anti-mite is diluted at the rate of 1 ml per 1 liter of water. The protection is valid for 25 days. Because of such proportions, it is beneficial to use it not in the garden, but for a small number of plants in a greenhouse or greenhouse.
  8. Karbofos. It is a broad-spectrum drug. Processing is carried out in dry, calm weather. The solution is prepared 75 g per 10 liters of water. Suitable for use in the garden, since the treatment of 10 bushes requires 2 liters of solution. For details on the use of Karbofos, see the instructions.


Tiny insects live on my plants in spider webs | Manual Home Page

Posted by Casandra Maier Updated December 14, 2018

When the health and beauty of your plants is compromised by insect pests, it is important to protect your investment. Uncontrolled infestation can kill your plants. Sometimes the smallest insects do a lot of damage, and some leave behind the business cards of their invasion, such as the thin web-like material. Responsiveness is the best way to protect your plants.

Spider mites

The tiny pests that cover your plants with fine cobwebs are spider mites. Spider mites, a member of the arachnid family, are closely related to spiders and share many of the same attributes, including eight legs and the ability to weave webs, but it is very difficult to see these pests without magnification. You are more likely to notice their cobwebs covering your plants as the first sign of infection.

Spider mites are less than 1/60 inch in length. Holding a sheet of white paper underneath the leaves and shaking the plant is another way to reveal their presence if you notice tiny spots falling onto the paper. They are most active in dry, hot weather, although there are some species that prefer colder temperatures, which means that spider mites pose problems for plants in all countries. Plant Resilience Zones of the Department of Agriculture.

Loss of energy

Once you start noticing cobwebs covering your plants, indicating a spider mite infestation, you will also likely notice a deterioration in the health of your plant. This is because spider mites use their mouth parts to suck vital nutrients and fluids from the leaves and stems of your plants. Spider mites rob the plant of its health and strength, causing its leaves to turn yellow, which eventually turn brown and begin to curl. If infestation is allowed to progress, leaf fall, stunted growth and death are likely.

Although they do not leave cobwebs, the tiny insects infecting your plants can be aphids. Aphids are almost invisible to the naked eye and cause damage to plants similar to that of spider mites. While they don't create webs, aphids leave behind their own trademark - a sweet, sticky substance called honeydew. Honeydew attracts ants and also contributes to the formation of black sooty mold on plant leaves.

There are many varieties of aphids with different physical characteristics, but the common damage to plants is loss of vitality and yellowing, curling of leaves, as aphids also suck sap and vital nutrients from plants. Fighting aphids is just as important as fighting a spider mite because severe infestation will lead to defoliation and death.

Control methods

The same control methods are effective for killing both aphids and spider mites. As with most garden pest control methods, it is best to choose an organic, non-chemical form of control to ensure that you do not kill beneficial insects that help control pest populations.

For easy infestation with aphids or spider mites, attach a sprayer to a garden hose and spray the plant leaves on both sides with a strong jet of water. Water is effective in driving out and flushing out these pests, making them vulnerable to predators on the ground. Other organic control methods that may be required for more serious infestations include garden oil and insecticidal soaps. Both of these methods work by contact: garden oil works by suppressing pests, and insecticidal soap breaks down insect membranes. Reapplication may be required to ensure all insects have been eliminated.

Recommendations for use

Be sure to water the plants thoroughly before applying insecticidal soap or garden oil. Plants under water stress respond poorly to these control methods and suffer further lack of growth. Mix oil or soap with water at the recommended rate for food, as stronger solutions can burn the leaves, and weaker solutions may not be as effective.