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Canna Lily Seed Harvesting: Can You Plant Canna Lily Seeds

Canna Lily Seed Harvesting: Can You Plant Canna Lily Seeds


By: Susan Patterson, Master Gardener

Canna lilies are commonly propagated by dividing their underground rhizomes, but can you plant canna lily seeds too? This article will answer that question.

Canna Seed Propagation

Propagation of canna lily by seeds is possible, as many varieties produce viable seeds. Since most of the plants with dazzling flowers are hybrids, starting canna lilies from seed may not give you the same variety.

Nevertheless, if you find it interesting to raise plants from seeds just to find out how they turn out, it is definitely worth a try. Moreover, you are not likely to be disappointed, as the wild varieties of canna lilies are all rather pretty, with striking colors and markings.

Canna Lily Seed Harvesting

So when can you harvest canna lily seeds? Once the flowers are spent, a cluster of seed pods develop. The pods are green, spiky, round structures that usually contain one to three seeds. The pods are harmless in spite of their outward appearance.

Canna lily seed harvesting should be done once these seed pods become dry. When pods open up revealing the black seeds inside, you can easily squeeze them out. They are quite big and easy to handle.

How to Germinate Canna Lily Seeds

Can you plant canna lily seeds directly in the garden? Canna seed propagation is not as easy as the seed collection. The seeds do not germinate when planted directly in the soil. The tough seed coat is the main obstacle. Canna seeds have to be prepared beforehand by softening the seed coat to encourage germination.

Canna seed propagation involves soaking, heating and scarification. Sometimes it takes a few attempts to get it right. You should start the process at least one to two months before you plan to plant it outside. Germination usually takes one to two weeks.

Soaking – Canna seeds should be soaked in water for a minimum of 24 hours. Some recommend using lukewarm water for soaking. Use of a commercial medium such as Jiffy Mix, may be ideal for germinating canna lily seeds. Make small depressions in the medium and put in the seeds. Cover with the mix and water.

After planting the seeds in the medium and watering, the container should be covered in plastic wrap and kept warm indoors. A constant temperature of 70 to 75 F. (21-24 C.) is necessary to initiate germination. You can use a heating pad to maintain the temperature.

Scarification – Another method to encourage canna seed germination is by rubbing off a bit of the seed coat before planting. Use a file or sandpaper to scrape off the seed coat. You should keep rubbing until the whiteness of the endosperm becomes visible.

Scarified canna seeds can be planted directly in the medium without soaking, as water can easily get across the seed coat now. But the container should be kept warm throughout.

Canna lily is a monocot, with just one seed leaf emerging first. When the seedlings are over 6 inches (15 cm.) in height, they can be transferred into pots. Planting in the garden should be attempted only after all danger of frost is over.

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How to Germinate Canna

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Canna lilies (Canna x generalis) can add an exotic feel to your garden. The ornamental plants, which resemble banana trees, have paddle-like leaves, and flowers in shades ranging from yellows and oranges to pinks and reds. Native to tropical and subtropical areas, cannas can thrive in California and other areas of the United States, within USDA plant hardiness zones 8 through 12. While canna lilies are commonly grown from rhizomes, growing them from seeds can also be a rewarding venture.

Nick the canna seeds with a knife so water can easily penetrate them. Remove some of the hard, dark coating just until the pale interior is showing. As an alternative, rub the seeds over sandpaper to remove some of the coating.

Fill a bowl with warm water, add the seeds and soak them for 24 hours.

Sterilize a seed-raising tray in a solution of one part bleach to nine parts water. Remove the tray after 15 minutes, and allow it to air-dry.

Moisten sterile potting mix with warm water. Fill the seed-raising tray with the moistened soil up to approximately 3/4-inch from the top. Use your fingers to lightly press the soil to firm it.

Place a canna seed in the center of each individual cell of the seed-raising tray. Cover the seeds with a 1/4-inch layer of soil. Lightly press the soil over the seeds.

Moisten the top layer of soil with warm water from a spray bottle.

Cover the top of the seed-raising tray with clear plastic wrap to promote moisture retention. Use sticky tape to secure the plastic wrap.

Put the seed-raising tray in a warm location to start the germination process. Aim for a constant temperature ranging from 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and maintain the soil moisture. Expect the seeds to germinate within seven to 14 days.

Move the seed-raising tray to a sunny window so the seedlings can grow. Transplant them to individual containers, when they're stable and tall enough to handle. Plant them outdoors after the last frost date in your area.

Kimberly Caines is a well traveled model, writer and licensed physical fitness trainer who was first published in 1997. Her work has appeared in the Dutch newspaper "De Overschiese Krant" and on various websites. Caines holds a degree in journalism from Mercurius College in Holland and is writing her first novel.


Growing Canna from Seed

Growing canna from seed is pretty straight forward, first of all you will need some seeds. These can be purchased from seed suppliers. The majority of which have an on line presence. Or you can collect seed from plants you have already grown.

I generally begin growing Canna from seed just after valentines days (14 Feb). Light levels begin to increase at about this time. In the past, I would make a start as soon as the Christmas dishes had been washed. However, January can be a miserable month for a newly germinated canna plant.

Equipment

  1. A pair of heavy duty toenail clippers.
  2. Clean plastic flower pots (3 or 4 inch).
  3. Some multipurpose compost.
  4. A small stemless glass (for stability reasons).
  5. Some canna seeds.

Method

First step in growing canna from seed involves chipping the seed. Canna seeds have a very hard coating which wears down over time in a moist environment. If you simply planted the seeds, whole, germination will be more unpredictable. The plants have obviously worked out when is the best time for their children to emerge in the wild, but we are not interested in all that. By chipping the seed you are in control of timings.


A certain amount of pressure needs to be applied to scratch the seed coating. You do not want to go too deep, just until you can see the white inside.

This may take a little practice. The seeds have a tendency to fly off all over the place. If they hit a solid floor they tend to bounce and disappear under the furniture. Chose your location wisely.


Next, once you have chipped all the seeds they need to be soaked. This is where your small stemless glass comes in. Cover the seeds in water and leave for about 48 hours. If you forget about them for an extra few days it does not seem to matter.They just start to grow in the glass.


After a couple of days in soak, they need to be planted. They can either be planted in individual cells trays or in 3 - 4 inch flower pots. Using individual seed trays removes the need to prick the seeds out, i.e. untangle all their roots and plant individually when they are a bit older. However the germination success rate seems to suffer. So if you only have a limited amount of seeds I would plant them in plastic flower pots. I would also only plant a maximum of 4 or 5 to a pot. This is to reduce the headache of untangling the plants when they need their own pots.

Before planting I like to sterilize the compost. This is to kill off any fungal spores that may wish to attack your babies as they emerge. My preferred method is as follows:

Fill the clean flower pots with a multi-purpose compost (new shop bought stuff, don't use any old rubbish left over from last year!). I like to use boiling water to sterilize the compost surface. Fill a small (pint sized) watering can with a fine rose attached, with boiling water. Water this onto the compost. Using a fine rose prevents an uneven surface. A small watering can prevents you pouring boiling water all over the kitchen floor or onto your legs.

If you do this an hour or so before planting, the seeds will benefit from having a nice warm pot of compost. The compost will also have drained any excess water and be at just the right level of moisture. Pop the seeds in evenly and not too deep.

Next put the pot into a medium freezer bag and seal the top. This way you do not have to worry about the compost drying out. Keep the pot in a warm place but not in direct sunlight. Wait a few days and you should have something like this:


Once the majority of plants have emerged the bag needs to come off. If you have a frost free greenhouse put them out in it. If you do not have such luxuries, they will grow on a window sill. Make sure the plants are rotated regularly or they will grow side ways. Before I had a greenhouse I found that plants grown indoors would get sun burnt when I put them outside in the spring. You will need to acclimatise your plants to outside by leaving them in the shade for a while.

As your plants grow they will need to be separated and planted up individually. Soak the pot thoroughly. This makes the compost soggy and then it is easier to pull the plants apart without too much damage to the roots.. Re-pot the plants individually in small pots. Do not think you can save time by planting them in large pots. For some reason the plants do not like this and often languish. Pot up when you see the roots emerging from the base of the pot. Think of it like changing gear in a car. If you change up too soon, the car struggles. If you change gear at high rev's the car accelerates away nicely.

Plants grown in individual cells need potting on once they have reached this stage:

And then again once they are at this stage:

And that will be their final potting on before they go out into the garden full time. So typically a canna grown from seed will have been in three pots before planting out.

If you are short of indoor space you can also try sowing your seeds directly in the soil.


How to Grow a Canna Lily from Seeds

A canna lily is usually propagated by separating the bulb, but it can also be grown from canna seeds. The beautiful trumpet-shaped large blooms that rest on the end of a large stem produce a light fragrance that combined with its visual beauty create an overwhelming sensual experience. The canna lily provides a myriad of different colors, producing blooms in every color except blue, green and black. The large leaves are either green, blue-green, bronze, burgundy, purple or striped. Follow these guidelines to produce the enchanting canna lily from seed.

Obtaining Canna Seeds

If you know someone you grows canna lilies, you can collect seeds from ripened seed pods. Many gardening shops will have canna seeds, as well. Ordering seeds from a gardening shop, brochure or online will allow you to choose from the many color and variety choices.

Test Seeds by Pre-growing

Since canna lilies quickly reproduce from one plant by creating more bulbs, you don't need many plants to start your collection. Therefore, test out seeds so that you can choose the few that will produce the best plants. Test seeds by placing between 2 damp paper towels that are folded in half and storing in a cool dark place for several days. The ones that have sprouted the most should be kept for planting while the others are discarded.

Planting Seeds

Plant the remaining seeds in a seed tray or in 4-inch pots (2 seeds per pot, planted near opposite sides). Plant seeds just barely under the soil surface in an all-purpose sowing soil. At this stage, canna lilies are susceptible to root and seed rot to water from the bottom up, misting the surface lightly if it dries out.

Repotting and Transplanting Seedlings

Choose 1 or 2 of the best seedlings, and plant in their own 4 inch pot (or larger, they will grow quickly) or in the yard if it is after the frost. At this time, sowing soil should be discarded for a compost-enriched natural soil. When replanting, wash off the roots so that any bacteria isn't transplanted along with the canna lily. At this stage, canna lilies should be watered regularly, whenever the top couple inches of surface soil dries out. Canna lilies should be planted in a sunny location. If planting more than one, plant about 1 foot apart, or 2 feet apart for the largest varieties which are about 5 to 6 feet tall.

Caring for Canna Lilies

Canna lilies respond well to organic fertilizer. If you prefer using organic fertilizer, fertilize in late winter with a mix of 4 parts blood and bone and one part sulfate of potash. Also, fertilize every other month with rotted cow manure or a liquid fertilizer. Look for signs of over-fertilization when not using organic fertilizers. Too much nitrogen will create burnt leaf edges. If this occurs, cut back on your fertilizer. Don't forget to water regularly the canna lily is native to tropical marshlands and won't endure dry conditions.

Enjoy the fragrant beauty of the colorful canna lily!


Appropriate Greenhouse Environment Conditions for Producing Cannas

Whether growing plants from rhizomes or seeds, it is imperative care is taken to control insects and disease. Plants grown from rhizomes need more care than plants grown from seeds. Recommendations for greenhouse environmental controls, disinfection and pesticide controls to improve growth conditions for plants grown from rhizomes or seed are provided below.

Greenhouse temperature and lighting must be monitored for proper growth and flowering, with the greenhouse temperature is kept around 80 F. The heating and cooling set points are between 70 F and 75 F during the day. The nighttime cooling set point is 80 F and heating set point is 65 F. Sunlight can provide 13- to 16-kilo Lux (1.2 to 1.48 x 103 foot candles) across the greenhouse. Lighting sensors detect when lighting diminishes below 13-kilo Lux and automatically turn on to maintain constant levels across the benches. The range of the sensor detect indoor high pressure sodium (red and yellow spectrum with typical luminous efficacy of 85 to 150 lm/W) and metal halide (blue and white spectrum with typical luminous efficacy of 75 to 100 lm/W). It is recommended to distribute lights every 5 feet to 6 feet to ensure consistent lighting across the canopy. Both the dark leaf and green leaf cannas grow well and produce flowers with these greenhouse lighting and temperature conditions.

Shade clothes might be required in July and August, when heat and sunlight levels inside the greenhouse might be difficult to control. Weekly assessments of light and temperature using a luminometer and thermometer are essential for deciding when to install a shade cloth. Greenhouses with a motorized apparatus that can extend or retract the shade clothes across the ceiling are ideal for reducing outdoor light and heat on particular days.

Greenhouse disinfection following a routine of pesticide treatments, along with fertilizer and water, are vital for success in a production greenhouse. Pests must be controlled from attacking the rhizomes and leaves. Virus-carrying aphids are known to lay eggs along the rhizomes, and rhizomes have been reported to test positive for virus infection. Often, plants appear to be naturally infected when the emerging leaves already show disease (Chauhan et al., 2015 Rajakaruna et al., 2014). While there are no scientific studies yet linking aphids to virus-infected rhizomes or leaves, as a precaution it is advisable to apply insecticides early. Canna leaves are susceptible to canna rust fungus, spider mite and aphid infestations. Table 2 provides a few products that are effective as part of a regime for greenhouse production of disease-free plants.

Table 2. Disinfectant and Pesticides for canna production.

Treatments Where to purchase Application Rotation
Virkon S Amazon, 10-lb container Dilution 1:200 30 liters per 100 m 2
Application rate of 300 ml/m 2
Use on surfaces, applied using mechanical sprayer, prior to planting and after harvest
Admire Pro Bayer Crop Science 0.1 fl oz/1,000 plants Apply once in greenhouse at planting
Sonata Biofungicide Bayer Crop Science 2 quarts/100 gallons Apply at planting, and then every two weeks as needed to prevent rust infections

It is recommended to follow the routine below for preparing the space for planting and maintaining disease-free plants:

  1. A 2 percent solution of Virkon S © Disinfectant, is a cost -effective disinfectant that kills viruses and bacteria. Four pounds during a one-year period for four cycles of disinfection of two 350-foot 3 greenhouses is recommended. Spray benchtops and floors to disinfect the area before planting, using a hand-held sprayer on a hose to control the fluid concentration (use the 2-ounce setting). After disinfecting the greenhouse, it is best to let the room and materials dry completely before starting the process of planting seeds or rhizomes.
  2. Plant rhizomes in 2-gallon pots in LC-1 medium. Apply a granular fertilizer with a N:P:K ratio of 12:12:12, such as Dynagreen ® All Purpose granular fertilizer. Then, plants are fed every 14 days, using liquid fertilizers with an N:P:K ratio of 24:4:8. It is recommended to load the liquid fertilizer into a container attached to a hose-end adapter and spray the contents over a 400-square-foot area, watering the soil until it is mildly saturated.
  3. A systemic insecticide such as a 2 percent solution of Admire Pro ® (Bayer Crop Science), can be applied to the soil at planting time to reduce the damaging impacts of virus-transmitting insects, such as aphids. Such an insecticide is compatible with fluid fertilizers and can be mixed in a tank with water and applied along with the fertilizer by adding to the bottle attached hose.
  4. Biofungicides such as Sonata © Biofungicide (BayerCrop Science) are used to control rusts. Within three days of planting rhizomes in pots, a 2 percent solution of Sonata© biofungicide can be applied using a hand-held sprayer to prevent canna rust or soil mildews that can affect germination. Other biofungicides are described in http://www.extension.org/pages/29382/
  5. For growing seeds, the problems of soil-borne or rhizomes-born insects are eliminated. Early treatment with insecticide or biofungicide is not necessary to ensure germination.
  6. Horticultural oils, especially 70 percent neem oil, can be used to control spider mites that are highly attracted to canna leaves in greenhouses (Cranshaw and Baxendale, 2014).


Harvesting Canna Lily seeds is quite simple. After the flowers fade allow the pods to turn brown. As they dry they will begin to crack open. As soon as they start to crack open you can harvest the seed by cutting the pod off and either storing the whole pod or immediately separating the seeds from the pod.

Once you have harvested your Canna Lily seeds discard any and all non-viable seeds. These can easily be identified visually. Healthy, mature Canna Lily seeds will be a dark, brownish black color and round or slightly oval shaped. Any seeds that are cracked, misshapen or not the right color need to be thrown out immediately.

Some species are hybrid and may not produce seed. One thing to remember when harvesting seeds from any type of plant, especially a hybrid plant, is that the seeds may not be true to the parent plant. This means that even though you harvested seeds from a red Canna Lily you may get white, yellow, red, black or even a mixed of different colors. This is due to all the cross breeding that has taken place in order to produce the parent plant. It's call hybridizing. Either way, regardless of the parent, you are sure to get beautiful Canna Lilies from the seeds you produce. You may even produce a new strain or color which could mean many wonderful things including a new variety that you could patent. This is how all new flowers are brought to life.


I have mold growing on seeds

This is the first time I have tryed seed And I think they are molding can you tell me what is happening is it to mosit no air will they take to ho tHere is one look and I will send another one
Thanks Dimmer(AKA) Kim

I don't think that's mold, that looks like the tiny little roots starting to sprout and find their way into the peat pellet.

When a seed sprouts it sends down a root first, then the tiny leaves show up.

No, those are not roots, they are mold. I don't know if there's a way to keep seeds once that's happened. I have tried washing them in a hydrogen peroxide solution and putting them on new peat pellets, but usually they just rot. Try squishing them a viable seed will stay firm.
Be careful to not overwater the pellets. They are a pain, because no matter what, some seem to dry out really quickly, while others mold or develop algae really quickly. Very irritating!
Good luck.

Are you sure? I just sprouted a bunch of tiny greens seeds and they were so close together on the pellet, when they germinated they looked exactly like the picture.

I'd keep them for a couple more days just to be sure, can't hurt anything.

Wait a minute- looked more closely at the pic and saw the root tip sticking out from those root hairs. My bad.
Don't remove any of those seeds at this point, or you risk damaging all those little root hairs. Wait until the cotyledons emerge, and then very carefully cut them off so as not to crowd out the best seedling.
And forgive me if you already know this!

BTW, what seeds are they? Peony? Lily?

POst edited. Never mind. I couldn't see it very well.

This message was edited Feb 25, 2008 3:40 PM

The Clorox won't hurt the seed? I worried that it would be too harsh. What dilution rate do you use?

LOL! I tried to get rid of my post before you saw it. I use 10% dilution and mix with warm-hot water and spray the tops of my seedlings that have white mold on them. I am aiming for the soil, but the seedlings get it, too, with no ill effects.

..it also somewhat works on the green slime, but don't be scared when all the green turns to brown -- it looks worse than it is and the seedlings come up through it.

I seem to have a lot of seed that takes FOREVER to germinate, so I always get molds or fungus or other nasties and the bleach takes care of it all. I throw it away after using it because I think it loses its efficacy over time, plus it cools off and spraying chilled water over everything is not good!.

Oh excellent! Now I can safely deal with all the green slime! I've posted some pics of seedlings and begged people to not judge me badly for all the green : )

If the seed hasn't germinated yet, do you not dunk the seed into the solution, or you still just spray it in situ?

I've only just sprayed. I do not think the Clorox is good for them, you know? But it won't kill them. The stuff you're worried about should all be on the surface, so a topical is good enough.

Green slime isn't harmful, is it? Only if it grows bigger than the seedlings. :)

Somebody once told me that algae/moss or whatever that stuff is wouldn't grow if you didn't over water, so I let a pot that I didn't think was going to germinate get dry as a bone and then rewatered it and the stuff sprang back to life. (No, the seeds never germinated, but I have a feeling they were old as the hills)

Somebody else said it wouldn't grow if you had enough fertilizer in it -- that was wrong, too. Fertilizer makes it bigger, greener and stronger.

Clorox was all I ever found to fix all ills.

Meanwhile, I have read that adding bone meal to potting mix is a great thing for little seedlings, so I have made a little batch of that up, and I'm expecting all kind of mold to grow because of it. I'll look for this thread and let you know how it went in another 3 or 4 weeks.

Actually bleach can be used to treat seeds to prevent mold--they use it in agriculture sometimes. I'm not sure what dilution they use, it might be a bit more dilute than the 1:10 that you use for most stuff around the house.

I'm off to stock up on bleach! : )
Thanks!

But. but. you don't need bleach! Those are tiny root hairs.

Hopefully she is getting the bleach for different pots than what is in the photo.

On the seeds inthe photo -- peonies? Why don't you cover those with some potting mix and see if they aren't roots first?

Oh, and on the bleach, use a 5% solution. I got looking at my spray bottle and it cannot be more than 5% that I use I'm ashamed to admit I don't actually measure it). and I use the old fashioned kind that isn't concentrated in the big bottle which would also meak a difference.

I am not getting bleach as of yet .The seeds that are growing are
cone flowers and they are pushing up the dirt
candy lily nothing yet
blackberry lily and a couple are comming up
datura tatula I see a sprout
Jackmanii Clemat can't tell
Easter Egg plant Can't tell if comming up .So I guess if I took a closer look I wood have seen that it is sprouting and not Molding Thanks for all the infor its good to have
Dimmer(AKA) Kim

Dimmer, how long did you blackberry lilys take to germinate. I just started some a few days ago in a pot inside a baggie over bottom heat. How do you have yours?

I started all my seeds the 18 of feb But it is just starting to sprout. Its the 3rd one the blackberry lily with all the fuzz. They are on a heat mat all day and night and growlites from the time I get up till I go to bed at night about 15 to 16 hours
Kim

This message was edited Feb 25, 2008 7:47 PM

Hmmm, where di you buy your seeds if I may ask. I got mine on Ebay. I have mine in a pot covered with vermiculite. You may want to try that on one and see how it does.

A very good friend of mine Susan51 gave me them I had a vacation and drove to her home all by myself it was great we planted all kinds of AV leave and to relaxs she gave me seeds as we watched TV. My summer is in the winter and in the summer is when I have all my work
Kim

The canna don't look like they were nicked and the way you have them above the peat won't work. Canna can take 5 years to germinate. You need to nick those, I use a dremel tool and then soak them for 24 hours in H2O2 and warm water. I can get good canna seeds to germinate in a matter of days that way. It's hard to get water into a canna seed so leaving them on top of the peat will not work.

Side note I hate peat discs.

I have no idea which one is a canna seed and this is all the first time I am doing seeds so what ever happens I will be happy. I have to go play with more seeds its a good day to plant 4.5 inches of snow came and I don't want to go out and shovel yet.
I have a bunch of seeds so I will try them in different ways thank for all the input
Kim

The black round ones are the canna. I could be wrong but that's exactly what a canna seed looks like.

This might be a dumb question but the seeds I planted are Lily Candy and Blackberry Lily are they in the same family as Canna or is that them only How New am I
Dimmer
PS Can you tell by the name LOL

No they aren't. Looks like I was wrong but the seeds look very much like the seeds I have. Hmmm, don't know much about what you have there.

Dimmer, Blackberry Lily is Belamcanda:

Very pretty flower, and spectacular seedhead. I don't know which one I have, but the flowers are all different colors at once.

Hey- I got 5"! I haven't shoveled, but I was out at midnight gently knocking snow off of my more delicate woodies. It was so pretty.

Only 3 more months until spring! )

Be careful to rip that netting that is on your seedlings when you plant them. I have found that they don't deteriorate when planted. Last fall when I was pulling up my annuals, I found that netting still on the roots of my geraniums. You could see that it was didn't allow them to grow properly.

This message was edited Feb 26, 2008 7:39 PM

3 months till spring. Ours is here.

I was watching the new and the lady on Local new said 1 month till spring
Did you know that we turn the clock on the 9th of March that is early To Spring Ahead

Well, one month until 3/21, which is the calendar start of spring, but we usually get hard frosts through the end of April. Isn't the Spring Ahead thing usually in mid-April? Why the heck are they moving it earlier?

They just started to do that didn't they last year ? Isn't it 3 weeks ahead of what it use to be . I have no idea. I wish that it wood get warm than I can go back to work I am done resting now and I almost caught up with my plant I have to be carful what I wish for the tollway 294 is where I have to go back to I see that they have been seting up thing to get ready for the North side
Dimmer(AKA) Kim

Yes, they just changed things starting last year. Daylight savings ended later in the fall last year than it normally would, and this year it'll be starting earlier in the spring too. Unfortunately things like that have no impact on the temperature--it would be nice if they could make spring start 3 wks earlier too!

I believe blackberry lilies and candy lilies are very similar, and they both have". canda.." in their names. They are actually members of the iris family though and you can get flowers the first year as opposed to true lilies which usually, I gather, take three. Also blackberry lily seeds look exactly like the black balls in the picture.
I have had mold on (other) seeds and I think 24 hours a day of light has killed it.
I thought I had killed seeds with about a 1% solution of bleach in the past but reading the comments above I begin to wonder now.

little late, but it looks like your blackberry and candy lilliies are still "berries." Don't know if it makes a difference but I rub everything off mine. I didn't right the date I planted down, but I received my blackberry seeds less then a month ago and 11 of 12 germinated and an inch tall.

Can soineone please tell me how to get the datura to germinate? I cannot take this ay longer. This is agony. Everythng else has germinated, the moonflowers, the hibiscus, the coleus. everythng with the exception of the datura and brugs which are the ones I want so desperately. Please give me some pointers here. PLEASE. I'm going to cry, I will. really, I'm going to bawl like a baby. I'm reaching for the tissue box. Wahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.

For some reason, my computer will not let me edit. I meant to ask if someone. And the second word that I made jelly soup is everything. My fingers are flying tonight, unfortunately they're flying in the wrong direction.
Must be al that powdered fertilizer I've been breathing lately. You know, the ones, "The Sulfates." LOL

Misty, I hear soaking them over night in warm water can help. I planted some Datura as well. Some a couple weeks ago, and some BCS, and Datura 19 a week ago. The ones I planted a couple weeks ago still no sign of life, but the 19 has already popped up. I read it takes 6-9 weeks for Datura and Brugs to come up. I hope they do, more then two months waiting on a seed and to have no germination is so sad. Good luck to both of us!

Oops, over watered & have bright green mold. Do I do the 5% bleach? Does it mater that most seeds have germinated?