Whether to insure the summer cottage for the winter or save money
Protection of the country house, as well as outbuildings, baths is an important nuance that must be foreseen before the onset of winter. In the absence of the owners, various incidents can occur. But before deciding on insurance, you need to weigh all the risks.
How much is insurance
To begin with, it is important to remember that the procedure for insuring summer cottage property is voluntary. But the conclusion of the contract guarantees the receipt of money in the event of unpleasant situations. And after assessing the cost of interior and exterior decoration, household appliances, plumbing, furniture, etc. items that remain for the winter, you can choose the appropriate protection option.To assess the total value of real estate and movable property, it is recommended to call an expert from the company. Or independently estimate the price of the entire object.
It is important to remember that dilapidated and damaged structures will not be protected.
The price of insurance depends on the number of risks, the state of structures and structures, the term of the contract, the location of the facility, the presence of alarm and video surveillance. For example, the price of a policy for a brick cottage differs from the price of a policy for a wooden house (it is more fire hazardous).
At the request of the owner, the agent will enter outbuildings or equipment - a bathhouse, a cultivator.
Another important point is the amount of coverage for losses. The more valuable the property, the more you need to choose the coverage limit. So that in the event of an insured event, the money paid is enough to repair or buy a new object.
Dangers that may arise during the absence of the owners, and which are included in the policy - fire, smoke, flooding with water (including thawed, spilling water), breakthrough of heating pipes, sewers, theft, arson, gas explosion, boiler. It is also not forbidden to include in the list the consequences of natural disasters, terrorist attacks or other circumstances.The more unfavorable cases are indicated in the contract, the more expensive the insurance is. But it is also not worth specifying the extra ones. For example, if electricity is turned off in SNT for the winter, and there is no gas equipment in the house, then the likelihood of a fire is minimal. It should also be borne in mind that the risks not included will not be taken into account. If the dacha is insured only against theft or fire, then in case of flooding with melt water, the money will not be paid.
This type of protection is called property loss.
Another type of protection is civil liability. That clause implies the payment of money to victims of third parties from the unintentional actions of the owner of the cottage. The owner forgot to turn off the gas boiler, there was a leak and an explosion, from which the neighbors suffered. The company pays them money within the limits prescribed in the contract.
Is there any alternative
Offhand, we can say that most summer residents do not insure their plots and buildings. But troubles of various scales can happen unexpectedly in the long winter. To protect the house and neighbors, before the end of the season, you need to protect the facility as much as possible.
It is better to act consistently, examining the inside of the house. Take all valuable items and equipment to the city for storage.
Turn off the electricity, remove flammable things (textiles, paper, plastic), turn off the gas. Drain the heating pipes to avoid leaks, insulate them with rags to prevent deformation or breakthrough. They cut off the pipes through which water is supplied to the room and to the site. If there have been cases of robbery or damage to objects, then it will not be superfluous to install bars on the windows and a reliable door. Or conclude an agreement with a security organization and set up an alarm.
Whether to buy a policy, which indicates the risks and the amount of compensation when they occur, is an individual decision of each owner of the cottage.
If on the territory of SNT there have already been cases of thefts, fires, flooding with melt water, then it is worth considering the issue of insurance.
How to prepare a vegetable garden for winter
Why do you think some gardeners have less harvest from year to year, while others have bins full every autumn? And these owners do not live in the north and south, but in the neighboring areas?
No, not because the lucky neighbor knows the "cock's word", but because he observes the basic rule of the farmer: "How much from the land you took, put so much back into it."
Do you follow this rule? If not, start tomorrow, and in a couple of years you will not recognize your land and you will be rightfully proud of the harvests you have received.
True, I am not claiming that this is an easy way, but starting to move in the direction of "organic farming", you will understand that it is the right one.
First of all, you need to understand that the soil in no case should go open and plowed (dug up) in the winter.
Why? The first rain (and in autumn this phenomenon is not uncommon), having thoroughly soaked the carefully loosened earth, will turn it into liquid mud, and then into a monolith, clogging all the pores and small holes. Spring flood waters, not finding the opportunity to penetrate deep into this "asphalt" and not encountering obstacles in their path, will flow off your site, taking with them the upper fertile layer, eroding even small slopes.
How to protect the soil in the fall and get it loose and soft in the spring?
One of the most effective ways is soil mulching. What is mulching? Mulch is any substrate with which we cover the soil. It can consist of organic substances: straw, bark and shavings from trees, sawdust, walnut shells, seed husks, mowed lawn grass, weeds, small twigs, newspapers, cardboard, peat, compost. And also mulch can be of an inorganic nature: fine gravel, marble and granite screenings, brick chips, covering synthetic materials (agrospan, lutrasil, spunbond, geotextile).
If you have the opportunity, cover the beds in October-November with straw, sawdust, weeds (only without seeds), peat. If these materials are not available, then simply cover the ground with multi-layered newspaper sheets, magazines, cardboard.
For interest, you can compare two beds that came out of winter in the spring. On the one that was covered, the earth is soft, porous, loose, without a hint of being washed away by spring waters. The soil on the second, uncovered bed, will be dense, "concreted", with clear signs of stormy water descended.
The second way to preserve porous soil in the spring is to sow green manures in the fall.
"Siderata" are plants sown in order to increase soil fertility, protect it from weeds, get rid of diseases and pests.
How do green manures work in autumn? Some of them gain good green mass by November (mustard, rapeseed, oats, peas) and, freezing in winter, act as mulch, i.e. cover the ground with a soft carpet, rotting in the spring and introducing additional organic matter into the ground, mineral substances that the green manure carried out from the depth of the arable layer.
Others, perennial (rye, alfalfa, sainfoin, lupine), also act as a protective carpet, but in the spring they continue to develop, pierce the ground with their roots, creating a system of capillaries, passages that allow air and moisture to freely penetrate into the soil. Due to this, soil microorganisms, worms, bacteria, fungi multiply rapidly. All of them create humus, which increases soil fertility. Spring waters flow freely into the depths. There is no trace of erosion. The dense green mass of siderates in the spring gives an abundance of organic mulch, which is used to cover the beds.
Substances released by some green manure scare off pests and prevent diseases from developing.
Country house insurance - what owners need to know
Property insurance is serious business. Few people are able to invite an insurance agent and discuss all issues with him. This is how our mentality works - we believe that nothing can happen to our economy. However, examples of the opposite abound. There is a saying: "If I knew where to fall, I would have spread the straws." This is just about property insurance. What do the owners of summer cottages need to know in this matter? Let's answer this question using the example of the history of citizen N from the provincial town of Kasimov in the Ryazan region.
“My husband and I decided to insure our dacha. For most of our citizens, this topic is “dark forest”. Well, before inviting an insurance agent, we read, of course, what, how and how much. However, the theory of the question is one thing, and the practice is another.
An insurer arrived at the dacha - a lively and talkative middle-aged woman. I began to advise to insure more expensive everything that I saw in our farm. And I tell her about our fence. They say it is desirable to insure it separately. Our house stands at an intersection, and the fence may suffer from careless drivers in the first place.
The insurer explains that this is not allowed. The fence must be insured with the house. I disagree and, as the competent people advised, I insist on my own. And the woman is again toldonite as before, that it is allegedly not according to the rules. Well, what can I say, then you will have to contact another specialist.
The next day, the head of this insurance company came to us. It turns out that everything can be done as we wanted. Insurance country fences are divided into different categories and each has its own price. The cheapest for wooden, then metal fences and the most expensive for forged with a stone base. In short, we entered into a summer cottage insurance contract, where the cost of the fence was entered in a separate line.
And so several years passed. Every year the agent came to our country house to receive the next payment. They even began to doubt whether it was necessary to conclude an insurance contract? But it turned out that the pay was not in vain.
In accordance with the changes in the legislation, tax must be paid for each building or outbuildings in a summer cottage. How much to pay? - it depends on how you register the object (more on that below). All this does not apply to the privileged category of citizens - pensioners. They may not pay for a residential building on the site and for one of the outbuildings (provided that its area is not more than 50 sq. M.). The rest of the properties are subject to taxation.
What is included in the category of taxable outbuildings?
These are all capital structures that have a foundation, but are non-residential:
- gazebo with a canopy, built on a low foundation
- summer kitchen or attached veranda
- garage, detached or attached
- barn, bathhouse, sauna and other utility rooms.
What you don't need to pay tax for:
- non-capital structures (without foundations): gazebos, terraces, sheds, etc.
- light greenhouses
- outside shower, etc.
Local authorities can expand the list of benefits provided. To inquire about the rules in force within your borough and area, contact the MFC Help Center and request information regarding a list of property tax rates and benefits.
In order to calculate as accurately as possible the amount of tax on a land plot and real estate on it, you need to make sure that all objects that fall under the taxable category have been officially registered and identified in the state register of property rights.
Putting the cottage "to sleep"
Before wintering, "feed" the garden and "water" the garden.
The autumn season for summer residents is no less important than the spring one. Not only is it necessary to have time to collect the remnants of the harvest before the frost begins - the foundation for next year's harvest is being laid. And hardly anyone would argue that "pasture", which can be removed even from a modest six-hundredth allotment, amid the crisis, galloping inflation (since the beginning of the year, prices have already jumped by 9.1%) and salary cuts will not be a good help. only for pensioners, but also for the working population. It is important to competently prepare your garden and vegetable garden for hibernation, otherwise in the spring they will not please the owners with abundant flowering, as well as in summer and autumn with juicy fruits.
Professionals told Segodnya what, how and in what order it is necessary to do on a personal piece of land before the onset of cold weather: head of the Department of Vegetable Growing at the National University of Bioresources and Nature Management Zinoviy Sych, Associate Professor of the Department of Horticulture of the same university Viktor Strelnikov and senior researcher of the Protection Laboratory plants of the Institute of Horticulture of the National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine Igor Shevchuk.
GARDEN: DIGGING, SEEM, TRAVING
Someone had no time to finish harvesting, and some out of greed are in no hurry to dig up carrots and beets, because these root crops are still growing, filled with sweet juice. Take risks, however! The first frost will grab beets, which are almost half sticking out of the ground, and they will become unsuitable for storage. Carrots hide deeper in the soil, but such cold torture will not benefit them either. Meanwhile, light frost is not terrible for late varieties of cabbage - they can not be cut off before the first snow.
If you intend to keep the harvested crop in the cellar, first thoroughly whiten it with a 5% solution of lime - it will kill putrefactive bacteria, and the vegetables will be well stored. And fumigate the empty greenhouses with sulfur, its acrid smoke will destroy the pathogens of phytophthora, and in the spring the seedlings of cucumber-tomatoes will not hurt. Often, plots located in humid lowlands are occupied by mosses and lichens. In order to cope with these uninvited guests, spray the soil with a 3% solution of copper sulfate with the addition of 1% ferrous sulfate. On this, perhaps, the "persecution" can be stopped.
Potato tops, weeds, fallen leaves should not be burned: firstly, it is prohibited by environmental legislation, and secondly, during the winter in the compost pit such biomass will rot and turn into good fertilizer. By the way, at the end of October or at the beginning of November, do not forget to "feed" your cornfield: add 5 kg of humus to 1 "square" of the garden, 30 g each of nitrophoska and ammophoska and dig up the beds. If you do not have organic fertilizers, sow the vacated vegetable garden with winter rye or barley, and at the end of autumn dig up their dense seedlings: until spring, these greens will grind and vegetables on such a substrate will grow by leaps and bounds.
If you have not yet had time to plant garlic, do not hesitate: before the onset of cold weather, the teeth should take root properly, otherwise they will freeze out. There is no need to dig out the parsnips - it will overwinter well in the soil, and the parsley is not afraid of frost, but. Mice love to feast on it, so if they live with you, you still have to remove the parsley. The last thing you have to do in the garden is to sow dill, carrots, lettuce, spinach and onions on a feather at the end of November, so that, as soon as the ground thaws, they start growing.
GARDEN: FEED AND CLOTH
Do not rush. Pruning should not start before the leaves fall.
Even scientists argue whether it is worth planting young fruit trees in the fall. There is a risk that the seedlings will not have time to take root before the frost and will die in winter, but if they survive, then in the spring they will grow faster than the trees planted in the warm. And if you have already decided on such a step, do not delay: the roots continue to grow in the fall and the seedlings must have time to adapt before winter.
All trees must be generously watered several times, otherwise in winter dry land may freeze and they will die. And in late October - early November, not only give water, but feed the garden with fertilizers. It is not difficult to measure the "ration": for 1 sq. m of the garden area, add 25 g of ammonium nitrate, 30 g of superphosphate and 22 g of potassium salt. It is optimal to apply fertilizers into holes dug near the trunks with a depth of 40-60 cm - this is how the top dressing will be of the greatest use. Before frost, spud young trees and all stone fruits - plums, cherries, apricots.
In addition, "dress up" the young - to a height of 1-1.2 m, wrap the trunks with roofing felt or burlap so that the hares could not gnaw the bark.But clean the bark of mature trees with a steel brush, so you destroy the cocoons of the moth, which usually hide in the cracks of the bark for the winter. Even if some of the pests survive, they will not like a 3% solution of lime with the addition of 1% copper sulfate, with which you will have to whitewash the trunks after stripping. After 2-3 weeks, generously spray the tree crowns with 3% copper sulfate or 7% urea - this will kill pathogens. Do not rush to prune sick and just extra branches and shoots: this can be done only after the leaves fall and the juices stop moving, that is, in late autumn or winter. And do not touch peaches and apricots at all until spring.
FLOWER: HIDE IT IN THE UNDERGROUND
Peonies perfectly tolerate the cold, you just need to cut off their leaves almost at the very surface of the soil and spud them. But the sissies of the rose are afraid of frost. Cut them, leaving shoots 30-40 cm long and cover the bushes with caps from cut 6-10-liter water bottles or craft bags, and then dig in this structure halfway. The most capricious are gladioli and dahlias. Dig the bulbs of the first and the tubers of the second in mid-November, dry and store in the cellar. In the cool and humid atmosphere there, your future flower bed will calmly wait for spring.
BERRY: CUT, DO NOT RETRIEVE!
Until the end of October, you can still plant bushes of garden strawberries, so if this is part of your plans, hurry up. After 2-3 weeks, there will be the best time to feed strawberries, per 1 sq. m will take 15-20 g of carbamide, urea, ammonium or potassium nitrate and 3-4 kg of humus. And with the first frosts, cover the strawberry beds with a winter "blanket" of straw, dry leaves or shavings.
Until mid-November - unless, of course, the frost hits - you can plant bushes of raspberries, black and red currants, gooseberries. It is elementary to propagate all these shrubs, for this, carefully cut the bushes along the roots with a sharp knife - and you're done. But this "stabbing" will not be limited. Take time to thin out currants and gooseberries. You can do this in the spring, but then your mouth will be full of worries. Do not stand on ceremony with pruning - in each of the bushes there should be no more than 15 shoots, located so that in the spring the sun's rays reach each branch, then the berries will be large and sweet. And do not use almonds with the raspberry - ruthlessly break out all the shoots, except for those that grew this year: only they will tie the berries.
How to buy an abandoned cottage? "
Answers Chairman of the Presidium of the All-Russian Public Organization "Union of Russian Gardeners" Oleg Valenchuk:
- SNT has no right to dispose of abandoned dachas, since they have owners, heirs.
However, this issue can be resolved in other ways. First: you independently find the owner of a given site and negotiate a purchase with him. Second: you apply to the chairman of SNT with a statement about your readiness to purchase this site. The procedure for the withdrawal of this site (Article 284 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation) lasts from 1.5 to 3 years.
The powers of the chairman of the partnership in this situation are as follows. He draws up a list of plots that have not been cultivated for 3 years. Then he sends notifications to the owners of the plots that the cottage is in an inadequate condition, that is, it is not used for its intended purpose, contributions to SNT are not paid, etc. In the notification, the chairman prescribes that SNT in case of further inactivity of the owner will have to go to court for the withdrawal of the site. Further, the chairman takes the list of abandoned plots and the list of SNT members wishing to acquire these plots to the municipality with a petition to seize these plots and redistribute them in favor of SNT members wishing to acquire these plots without bidding.
After completing the procedure for withdrawing the site you like, you purchase it in accordance with regional legislation.