Texas Red Yucca
Hesperaloe parviflora (Red Yucca)
Hesperaloe parviflora (Red Yucca) is a stemless succulent with clumps of arching and spreading, grass-like foliage up to 4 feet (1.2 m)…
Texas Red Yucca Shrubs for Sale Online
Tall spikes hold deep rose-pink flowers atop clumps of slender, green, drought-tolerant foliage. Blooms nearly year-round in warm winter regions. An effective choice to add dramatic interest in a rock garden, as a landscape accent or in containers. Partners beautifully with other desert-like plants.
Drought Tolerant Texas Red Yuccas
Tall spikes hold deep rose-pink flowers atop clumps of slender, green, drought tolerant foliage. Blooms nearly year-round in warm winter regions. An effective choice to add dramatic interest in a rock garden, as a landscape accent or in containers. Partners beautifully with other desert-like plants.
|Mature Height:||4 to 6 Feet|
|Mature Width:||3 to 4 Feet|
|Classification:||Broad leaved evergreen shrub, summer flowering|
|Habit:||Upright, clump forming|
|Flower Color:||Pink on outside with red buds|
|Pruning Season:||No pruning needed|
|Soil Condition:||Any well drained soil|
|Water Requirements:||Water well until established|
|Uses:||Extremely attractive when used as a focal point in the mixed border, mass planting, or a hedge. Great winter interest due to evergreen habit|
This Plants Growzone: 5-11
Yucca offsets grow from underground stems called rhizomes. These small plants live off the parent plant's roots, which provide nutrients and moisture to them. The mother yucca plant produces side shoots mostly in spring or summer, but they can show up any time of the year. Most of the time it is a reaction of the parent plant when it is under environmental stress or damaged. The plant goes into reproduction mode in case it dies.
Side shoots can be removed at any time of the year. Older offsets form their own roots and develop into larger plants faster than offsets without roots. Simply break off a side shoot with at least a 1/4-inch-long stem. Place the offset in a cool area in the shade for a few days to cure. This means that the broken spot on the stem dries out and forms a callus.
Garden Uses for Red Yucca
Sometimes xeriscape gardeners avoid cactus and yuccas, thinking of them as cliches, but the striking blooms and unusual foliage of the red yucca plant have won over xeriscape enthusiasts from California to Texas to Florida. The desert native is also at home in a rock garden, planted among dry streambeds and landscape boulders. A surprising addition to a cottage garden or border, it can contribute color and textural interest, if placed with other waterwise perennials. If you have the space, plant it en masse with other grasses for a native grassland effect. Finally, it makes an appealing patio accent when planted in a large pot.
Unlike its common name, Red Yucca is not really a yucca, it’s in the lily family.
And most of them really aren’t even red. It gets 2-3 feet tall and about as wide, with a flowering spike that can add an additional 2 to 3 feet in height. It flowers from spring through summer, producing one set of blooms that last for quite a long time.
Each flower bud will produce a seed pod containing many flat, black seeds. If you want to harvest the seed, wait until the pods dry completely on the plant, then cut off the entire stalk and break the pods open to collect the seeds.
Red yucca prefers full sun, but can take part shade. It’s very drought-tough, surviving on rainfall alone, even in the harshest of times. Since it survives so well on so little water, you might think it would struggle with heavy soils and over-watering, like other desert species, but it really doesn’t. I’ve seen it be just as happy in clay soils as in sandy ones. Red yucca is used to good effect as an accent plant, among areas of decomposed granite and rock mulch. It is evergreen, with long, narrow leaf blades and an arching habit.
When you bring them home, they are likely to be quite small, but don’t be fooled. Give them at least 2 feet on each side to spread out. And be careful if planting near Bermuda grass. If grass or other weeds get up under the plant and amongst those narrow leaves, it will be impossible to pull out without completely digging the plant up or working from the root area, which would not be good for the plant.
Hummingbirds love the towering flower stalks, which range from salmon, the most common, to yellow, to red. New cultivars show up now and then, like the recent Brakelights yucca.
Deer also love the flowers, but they usually tend to avoid the plant itself.
Square Foot Gardening
Why is Mel Bartholomew’s innovative square foot gardening concept so valuable today? Son Steve Bartholomew from the Square Foot Gardening Foundation explains why his dad developed the concept, easy steps to make one, and how its global impact conquers hunger. In Leander, Ellen and Rick Bickling turned the kids’ old basketball court into square foot | watch episode →
Half-Pint Urban Prairie + Native Fruit Tress
Let’s get growing native fruit trees! Horticulturist Karen Beaty from the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center plucks a few for big and small gardens to feed us, the birds, and beneficial pollinators. To demonstrate the beauty and value of the Blackland Prairie, University of Texas at Austin students are seeding the future at the Half-Pint | watch episode →
March To Do List
Plant: ornamental & wildlife
- Annuals: It’s a tricky month for annuals since we get hot days. But the soil is still cold and freezes could still arrive. Late: plant cosmos, sunflowers, morning glory, gomphrena but keep an eye on upcoming freezes. Avoid planting caladiums.
- Wildflower transplants: early in month, you can still plant bluebonnet, larkspur, poppy and other transplants.
- Perennials & vines
- Ornamental (clumping) grasses like muhly and Mexican feather grass (late month)
- Trees, shrubs, roses (as soon as possible before heat sets in)
- Nasturtiums, chives, catnip, comfrey, fennel, horseradish, feverfew, oregano, thyme, rosemary, Mexican mint marigold, peppermint, lemongrass (after last freeze)
Plant: food crops
- Chard, corn, cucumber, eggplant, endive, Malabar spinach, mustard, peppers, pumpkin, summer & winter squash, tomatillos (you need at least two!), tomatoes, beans, cantaloupe
- Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Vegetable Planting Guides (Central Texas)
- Roses (early)
- Evergreen shrubs
- Prune dormant perennials and ornamental (clumping) grasses.
- Trees: DO NOT prune red oaks and live oaks unless damaged. Spray immediately with clear varnish.
- No need to apply pruning paint to other trees
- Avoid topping crape myrtles: simply remove sprouts or entire limbs at the trunk.
- Dormant perennials, roses, shrubs and trees. Still time, but don’t wait!
- Citrus with high nitrogen fertilizer like Citrus-tone. Fertilize every few weeks through growing season.
- Add compost to beds as you cut back dormant perennials. Fertilize with slow-release granular late in the month or as dormant perennials leaf out
- Add compost around trees and fertilize. Be sure to dig out grass several feet from the trunk, ideally to the drip line of the tree canopy.
- Watch for powdery mildew. Apply a natural fungicide like Serenade.
- Mow weeds before they set seed. Do not fertilize at this time except with compost!
- Plant native Habiturf seeds after soil prep
- Plant other turf late in month once freezes aren’t coming
- Add compost to vegetable gardens along with organic fertilizer in prep for more summer crops
- Soil test
- Keep floating row cover available avoid covering plants with plastic
- Mulch, but avoid touching the base of trees and roses
- Till in winter cover crops
- When planting, dig hole twice as wide as root ball but no deeper than where it sits in the pot.
- Backfill and water until it sinks in.
- Continue filling in.
- Water again until it sinks in and pack the soil down.